Hi, I am Bob Schmidt with Home Remodel Workshop. This is phase two video of basement frame. If you have not watched phase one. Some of this is not going to make sense to you, so you may want to drop back and check that out first. Let's get to work.
All right, we have our two good lines that we have down the top here, and down this side that we already checked with the three, four, five method. We know that it exactly matches up exactly the way we want it. Every other interior wall will be measured off of this wall or this wall, including the wall that is all way on the opposite side of the basement against the foundation wall. It will get measured all the way from this side also. Now once you have all that done, you decided basic layout, where you want everything to go, you have your doors, your unfinished area, and you have every thing marked on the floor.
What would you do now? These lines will not stay forever. As you clean up the job as you are working down their and your wife helping you sweep things around this lines will disappear. What you need to do is you need to take an indelible, and at every single point where this, this inside and outside corners you need to go through and make a mark with you indelible marker. After you make a mark, even on door way openings, after you make a mark everywhere with your indelible marker, because you know this lines may go away there is a product I recommend you use for the chalk lines, it is called "clear marking coat". It sprays on with the can upside down, and it is specifically designed for use to seal chalk lines and other temporary markings. That way, as you are working along you would know that you are not going to loose this marks on your floor and have to relay and redo all the work that you have already done.
We have all our marks down on the floor it's time to start slapping in plates down. Right? Wrong! Too soon again. Now what we need to do is we need to transfer all of this marks that we have on the floor up to the ceiling. Now some people will say, let's use a straight edge and a four foot level. The only problem with that is you can be off a little bit each direction and you can make for not a straight wall.
What I recommend you use is a plum-bob. Basically you hold the plum-bob up there, you make sure you install blocking the marked on. You hit every inside and outside corner, you need to mark up on the ceiling. Then you need to snap all of those lines up on the ceiling. Once you have all the lines on the floor and they are protected, all the line on the ceiling, well all the lines on the ceiling and you have double checked everything. You make sure the tub will fit in this opening, that you have plenty of room for everything. Then it is time to start framing the walls.
Now, the way I frame basement walls is a little different than some. The first thing I do is I install my treated plate down to the concrete floor that is that green looking staff at the warehouse place that you buy your lumber from. The reason we do this is because there is moisture that is inherit, that sucks up through concrete floors. You want to have a product down there that is moisture resistant, bug and rot resistant. The next thing I would do now that I have all my lines up on the ceiling is that I would take my untreated 2x4 and I would put all my top plates up on the ceiling. All of them, I would not just put up a couple and get going.
Now this is not a video of how to frame. It is basically a video of how to get your walls squared up and how to get your top and bottom plates on. But with this method that I am telling you to use, you will fit your wall studs in after you have your top and bottom plates done.
Now, here is something that is very critical you have to be careful of. When you lay out these wall studs, which I am not going to tell how to do that, there are methods; there are other ways for you to find out. When you lay this wall studs out and you measure between the bottom plate and the top plate to put this wall stud in place, you can not make this wall stud to high. Because basically what you are doing is you are creating a wedge. If on the first floor up above, you have a tile or a solid surface and you make your wall studs too long and drive you drive in there with your hammer it will lift that floor and crack that tile. So I highly recommend that when you measure this, if it creates the slightest resistance and dings drop right in there, to re cut before you put it in, just make it so that it just perfectly fits. I know this will take sometime, but by the time your getting your wall studs in. If you can use that air nailer that’s the best because you just shoot it in the place. If not, if you are nervous about it you can even take a screw gun and a screw and you could screw it into place, which will lessen the banging that you are doing up on the floor up above because vibration can also crack tiles, do things up above damage that you do not want to cause.
Now, one more thing I think we should cover, I probably should have done this in the very beginning of the first video, but I am going to do it now. After you get your space emptied out and you are walking around and you are taking a look and deciding where you want your walls and what is going. Look for those cracks in you foundation, if you have any crack on your foundation or any water problems on you foundation, they need to be taken care of prior to you building your walls and framing everything in. They will come back to bite you later. So if you have these cracks in wall and even though they may not look like they have ever leek, may be we have not had that monsoon in five years that is coming next summer. You may want it go ahead and take the time to call a foundation specialist. They have an injection process for cracks, it is fairly inexpensive where they put in a solid material that is water resistant so that after you get done investing thousands of dollars into this basement project that you are not tearing it apart to repair that crack later.
Now I realized that the simple basement that I drew here probably does not match your basement with your offsets and where you plumbing is coming down in the way by the exterior wall where I am telling you the chalk lines. Basically, what you need to do is you need to use the principles that I gave you here and apply them to your situation. In other words, if there is something in the way at 4 ½ 5 inches off the wall and you are planning on building offset around it. That’s fine, go ahead and measure two maybe even three feet off of that wall to get your first line and get that line squared up at 90-degrees. You could always measurement back off that line to get your long wall in several places if you have to getting around obstructions that you are going to frame around later.
I am Bob Schmidt with Home Remodel Workshop, I hope you appreciate this video and get some use out of it, if not there are many other videos back on our home channel please check them, thanks.
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