Installing an exterior entry door is a popular project. Typically, exterior entry doors, come pre hung in a door frame. Installing exterior doors is much like installing a window. Generally, exterior doors are fairly heavy and awkward to move. So it’s a good idea to always have a helper when installing this type of product. Installing an exterior door requires just basic carpentry skills. On a scale of one to five, with five being very difficult, this project is about a three.
Always ensure you have the following tools and supplies when installing an exterior door. A carpenter’s pencil, electric drill, a Phillips head screw driver, a circular saw, a hand saw, a carpenter’s level, utility knife, shims, insulation, building paper, drip edge, tape measure and safety glasses. Okay, let’s get started.
First of all, you want to test fit the door in the rough opening; using a large carpenter’s level, check the door for plum. Now, from the exterior, trace the outline of the brick molding onto the siding. Make sure to clearly mark the lines since they will serve as a cutting guide in the next step. Now you’re ready to trim the siding. Cut along the outline using a circular saw. Set the cutting depth to cut through the siding but not the sheaving. Stop short of the corners and cut the remaining siding using a sharp wood chisel.
Next, slide building paper between the siding and the sheaving and the top end side of the opening if not already present. Bend the paper around the studs and staple in place. Install drip edge along the top of the rough opening. The drip edge will help protect the brick molding from rain and moisture. Apply several beads of silicon cock to the sub floor of the bottom of the door opening and also over the building paper on the front edge of the studs and headers. Center the door into the rough opening and push the brick molding, tight against the sheaving. From the inside, insert shims in the gaps between the door jambs and framing members. To avoid warping the frame, don’t force the shims. Insert shims at all lock set and hinge locations and about every foot, all the way around the frame.
Next, check the door for plum with the level. Using a level against the door frame, adjust the shims until the door is both plum and level. From the outside, using a hammer or pneumatic nailer, drive nails partway through the door jambs into the framing members at the shim locations. Check the operation of the door and adjust shims if necessary until the door opens and closes smoothly. Remove two of the screws from the top hinge and replace them with long anchor screws that are provided with the door. Be sure to follow the specific directions given by the door manufacturer. Nail the brick molding to the framing members. Adjust the threshold to create a tight seal. Don’t make it too tight as this will wear out the door sweep prematurely and make the door tough to open and close. Cut the shims flush with the framing members using a hand saw or a sharp utility knife. Apply paintable silicon cock around the entire door unit and fill all nail holes. Fill the gap between the jambs and the framing members with loosely packed fiber glass insulation. Finally, replace the casing on the inside of the door jamb.
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