Every table saw should have a good solid out fit table. That is what we are going to do today, and it not just any table, it is a very simple table that can be built with the basic compliment of tools. So, what I like to call a Can Do Project.
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Hot and Fresh Woodworking
The Wood Whisperer
Episode 30
Somebody Feed Me
Welcome to Episode 30 of The Wood Whisperer. I am your host Marc Spagnoulo, and on today's show, we are going to build a new outfit table for the table saw. Now, I know you are probably thinking, "Hey, you already have one, why do you need a new one?" Well, I actually had a chance to upgrade the Fence System. And, since the outfit table was made specifically for the Fence System that I had, it is going to work on this new one. Just to show you real quick, it is the new incra TS III table Saw Fence System, and this thing is just a dream to use. I wanted one for a long time, and finally had the chance to get one, so it is--I could manage of it.
Here it is, but unfortunately, no outfit table as you could see. So, have a few things to consider with this one, first, dust collection. I have to make sure my dust collection gets where it needs to go. I also want to make this one a little bit wider so I have more working space. I almost want to duplicate the surface area of the table saw once more behind the saw, and we got a few specific things that we need to look at in terms of measurements that if you are building your outfit, what you might want to consider when you actually put those numbers to paper.
So, let us go ahead and take a look at those details.
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Did you know?
Outfeed tables do not have to be this formal. A serviceable outfeed table can be as simple as a roller stand or even an old ironing board.
And, the first thing we are going to consider is the height, obviously. If the height is off, this whole, this is shut. We need the pieces to flow smoothly off, of our table and then on to the outfeed table. So, what I like to do is take a measurement form the floor to the top of the table, and that is exactly, 34 inches. Now, if your table is not real level, you may want to check all sides and make sure everything is okay. But, your reading should be 34, and if your table is not level, it could cause some problems. So, try to keep your table level before you do this process. Okay, so we got 34 inches here, that means our outfeed table with our top, the length of our legs, everything when it is all said and done could be no higher than 34 inches. And, in fact, I am going to aim for to be at least, an eighth of an inch under 34 because I plan on using some adjustable fit. And, I want to lead a little bit of extra way go room there so that I could bring it up to the perfect tight, that it will make sense for this table. Also, keep in mind, depending on what type of leveling fit you use, there may be a certain amount of distance that this automatically add. This one looks like it is only going to add about a 16th, you know, maybe three 30 seconds of an inch to the height. So, I want to make sure that I allow for the leveling fit when calculate the length of my pieces.
So, now we need to look at the dimensions of the top which is really up to you. Some people like a really, narrow table, if you got enough room. To me bigger is better because it has more work surface. But, the thing I am really concern about is how far from the bank of the saw, out we should go. We have to have enough rooms to support the pieces that we are going to put on this thing.
So, let us think about it, logically. Usually, the longest piece that we are going to run across here would be, let us say, a 4x8 sheet of plywood. And, the key is, that once you go through the cut, you want to make sure that the piece does not have a tendency to tip forward. So, if you are under 4 feet, that is exactly what is going to happen because the majority of the sheet is going to be hanging off of your outfit table. So, for me, the key is where just at the point where my splitter starts, where you past the blade. I want to make sure that I have got at least, 4 feet from that point right there, and if I do that, basically the easiest way for me to do this is to measure form here to the end of the rail which is about 10 inches. And, I know I need at least four feet. So, I am going to say 48 inches minus this 10 inches. I know that I need my table to be at least, right about here, 38 inches from front to back.
Now, there is other few other things to consider when you design your table. The biggest thing is obstacles. What do you have maneuver around what has to get around it. Especially, if it is going to be a permanent fixture like mine is. If you are going to put on wheels, you know that is another thing you have to be concern about and how it is going to get around. For me, I have this big tube here for my dust collection system and I need to make sure that that is not a problem for the set up.
Secondly, I really want to have a shelf on this thing. I hate the fact the there is empty space under this outfeed’s tables and it is just wasted. You know, y o could really do something with that space. So, I want to have a shelf that suits about, maybe 12 to 16 inches off the ground. Obviously, if you look at this design of the dust collection system, my shelf needs to come above this plate here, the flex tubing. So, it should not be a problem, but at least now you will know why I made some of the decisions I did and what you might need to change about your design to make it fit your table saw and your dust collection system.
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