So when you will remove your chain, you can clean it after it's removed, and I am going to use a can to do that in, and just drop that chain in there. Take some chain clean fluid, this is Park Chain Bright. You can use other things, diesel fuel is sort of what the old European mechanics always use, the pro-mechanics for generations, now I think, people have really switched to these Bio degreasers, because they are so much more environmentally friendly, than it's really the way that old pro teams use to be cleaning chains with diesel fuel .and hotel parking lots. And then just letting it wash down into the river until it started to be kind of objectionable.
What I suggest doing, is simply putting the top on, and initially just shake it around, and you can then turn it over, flip the chain over, put it back in. And the chain is way cleaner than when it started, but if you really want to be as particular about it, you can go about it with a brush, but anyway, you can make the chain look really, really clean. I am not sure you are actually doing anything better for it, because your brush is never going to be able to get down in between the roller and the plates where the grit you are actually concerned about is, the grit that's sitting on the plates, it's not effecting the chain performance, then just pull it out, and let it hang to dry, either shake it off, or some let it hang, and you can see how there's stiff link there. That squeaking chain almost never get rehabilitated, you can just keep pouring fluid, pouring lube in there and they will have often, usually have an annoying way of continuing to squeak.
So you want to avoid that happening in the first case, that is one reason why diesel fuel was so popular with the old guard European mechanics, because it does have oil in it. So that's all it is on cleaning the chain when it's off the bike.
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