How to Create Illusions with a Well Tailored Suit
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Hi my name is Matt Landesberg with Eric Finn Custom Clothiers so we’re talking about
how to buy a suit and have a suit and shirt fit properly, specifically now we’re going to
talk about how to create illusion with a suit to make you look either taller, wider, or
slimmer. In this case if we imagine Bryce looking— or if Bryce say 5”5’ and you wanted
to create the illusion of being a little taller. You want to create more linear lines or more
long vertical lines so the first thing you would want to do when your buying a jacket is
get something that’s got a longer lapel so he would prefer a 2-button jacket which creates
longer lines on him versus a 3-button jacket where you’ve got a wider v in the lapel.
Other important thing to consider is a jacket length to create illusion of longer legs you
want to jacket an overall jacket length to be a little bit shorter making the legs look
longer. For those guys that are wearing their jackets too long it makes the lace look very
stumpy. On the trousers, one of the things you can do is not have cuffs so if you don’t
have a cuff that’s ideal because again a cuff grade is a horizontal line. You want to stay
away from horizontal lines when you’re short as much as possible. Same thing goes for
the pattern of the jacket, the more lines and the more verticality to it is better than
anything horizontal so stay away from the window pane patterns and that goes with the
shirt as well.
So many other things to do to help create the delusion of height is to make sure that the
jacket is not too white in the shoulders. Again more horizontal lines is not an ideal
situation and also making sure that the jacket waist is fairly tapered at least as much as
possible for somebody for them. For somebody who’s a little bit heavier and might have
a little bit of a stomach to shoulder or some other illusions that can be done, one thing is
it’s keep the eyes attention away from the midsection. So in this case you might want to
wear, put a pocket square in your pocket and again that’s going to focus the eye up and
away from the belly.
Another thing to is as you want to keep the jacket closed and the jackets open you’ve got
a stomach protruding, it’s not ideal. A lot of same factors apply to somebody who’s a
little bit overweight as to somebody who’s shorter. So again, any linear pattern is more
ideal than something more horizontal. For somebody who wants to look a little bit wider
for example somebody who’s got a slighter build and wants to look a little bit bulkier,
they’re going to want to do a few things as well. It’s important for them to have a more
form fitting shoulder so for example if the shoulder came out to here on Bryce it would
make him look smaller and make his head look smaller and make his neck look smaller
and make his shoulders look like they don’t quite fit.
Again, it’s all about balance and proportions so this would be an issue. This might be
contrary to what allowed people to believe saying, “Well, I want to look bigger so I want
to have broader shoulders to the contrary you’re going to look like a kid wearing his
father’s jacket that’s just too large and ill fitting. Nothing too is just really important as to
make sure that the mid section is well tapered and it’s pretty close. I don’t want to say
form fitting but it’s nicely tapered and fits the waste well otherwise there is too much
room and it creates the illusion of somebody being very small inside the oversized jacket.
And that’s how you create illusion with various lines and balance in the suits.
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