How to Do a Hair Replacement for Alopecia - Part 2 Video

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How to Do a Hair Replacement for Alopecia - Part 2

How to Do a Hair Replacement for Alopecia - Part 2 The advantage to having mash base is the obviously it’s cooler. It’s usually easier to repair and it’s a little bit less expensive. I usually reinforce the outsides of all of my units with polyurethane and silicon depending upon on the clients preferences. The polyurethane holds the edges ridges so if it holds it shape and it gives me something to adhere or clip the hair piece to the head rift. Now I actually can see in this hair piece it’s made from two different base materials. There’s polyester which is the bulk of the unit and then around the perimeter there’s polyurethane and polyurethane right down area where the hair is going to part. This way when someone’s looking down on the person’s wearing hair replacement like if they’re sitting down, it has a skin like quality and the growth pattern. There’s a whirl on the back of the head where the cull look would be and there is definite break where the part is suppose to be. This particular one is made with clips. This is called the temporary attachment, these clips can be opened up and then press back on catching hairs underneath. And this will hold it on pretty much for the whole day without having to be retyped. The front is usually held on with a double face tape, it’s pressed down to the hairline and front and this is where the most stresses is going to be. There’s wind and so forth that would cause the unit to lift up. The double face tape will ensure that it will not lift up. In the case where there is still some remaining hair there, there are two options. You can put additional clips in through the front or you can shave the scalp and use the double face tape. Using tape over growing hair is not a real successful way to adhere the unit to the head where Roxanne is going to be wearing her hair down in front of her face in the form of a shutter bug. I’m going to bring the front of the unit right up to the hairline then I’m going to bring it back on the crest to the roll so that I know that I’m going to coverage on the sides of the unit. It’s going to be right on the roll and then slant down as it comes to the back, this gives it a little bit more area to be covered here just in case she should start to shed more. I know that with this price group I have 9 inches that I can go back. I usually try to use all it. Now while she’s holding the contour analysis material in place and the unit has been stretched as far as it can. You’re going to mark her hairline where you want the perimeter of the unit to end where the crown appears and then indicate if you want to part or break from which ever side up to that crown. When these markings are transferred to the insides of the mold, this is going to give the ventilator that is the person that is tying the hair into the unit. The idea of where her part is going to be in which direction to direct the knot so that it will flow away from the part and around this whirl what we call the crown. The contour analysis material is in place and now we’re going to put thin pieces of plaster strips soaked in warm water over the top of the material and mold it right to the head. You want to make sure that the plaster strip is extended beyond the hairline within the front because this is going to make a little cup or bowl that we’re going to pour Styrofoam in to make the form. Smooth the plaster down with your hands, it’s a little messy so make sure that she’s wearing something I just not really, really expensive or warn her ahead of time and also you don’t want to be wearing really nice clothes when you do this either. Smooth out the strips nicely when you’re applying them, fold them if you have to in order to achieve the contour that you need, the idea there is to get the first layer at least, as close as possible to head so you have an exact form of her scalp. Once you have the first layer down you’re going to lay the second layer in the opposite direction. So with the first layers went from side to side, the next layer is going to go from front to back. This will build more strength because these molds have to be shift to Manila and I doubt seriously these people are gentle with the packages that they’re holding so I usually put three or four layers of plaster. In between layers I often block with the towel by just placing towel over the clients head and pressing and plastering into the head. One more layer plaster should make it thick enough.

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How to Do a Hair Replacement for Alopecia - Part 2

The advantage to having mash base is the obviously it’s cooler. It’s usually easier to repair and it’s a little bit less expensive. I usually reinforce the outsides of all of my units with polyurethane and silicon depending upon on the clients preferences. The polyurethane holds the edges ridges so if it holds it shape and it gives me something to adhere or clip the hair piece to the head rift.

Now I actually can see in this hair piece it’s made from two different base materials. There’s polyester which is the bulk of the unit and then around the perimeter there’s polyurethane and polyurethane right down area where the hair is going to part. This way when someone’s looking down on the person’s wearing hair replacement like if they’re sitting down, it has a skin like quality and the growth pattern. There’s a whirl on the back of the head where the cull look would be and there is definite break where the part is suppose to be.

This particular one is made with clips. This is called the temporary attachment, these clips can be opened up and then press back on catching hairs underneath. And this will hold it on pretty much for the whole day without having to be retyped. The front is usually held on with a double face tape, it’s pressed down to the hairline and front and this is where the most stresses is going to be. There’s wind and so forth that would cause the unit to lift up. The double face tape will ensure that it will not lift up. In the case where there is still some remaining hair there, there are two options. You can put additional clips in through the front or you can shave the scalp and use the double face tape.

Using tape over growing hair is not a real successful way to adhere the unit to the head where Roxanne is going to be wearing her hair down in front of her face in the form of a shutter bug. I’m going to bring the front of the unit right up to the hairline then I’m going to bring it back on the crest to the roll so that I know that I’m going to coverage on the sides of the unit.

It’s going to be right on the roll and then slant down as it comes to the back, this gives it a little bit more area to be covered here just in case she should start to shed more. I know that with this price group I have 9 inches that I can go back. I usually try to use all it.

Now while she’s holding the contour analysis material in place and the unit has been stretched as far as it can. You’re going to mark her hairline where you want the perimeter of the unit to end where the crown appears and then indicate if you want to part or break from which ever side up to that crown. When these markings are transferred to the insides of the mold, this is going to give the ventilator that is the person that is tying the hair into the unit. The idea of where her part is going to be in which direction to direct the knot so that it will flow away from the part and around this whirl what we call the crown.

The contour analysis material is in place and now we’re going to put thin pieces of plaster strips soaked in warm water over the top of the material and mold it right to the head. You want to make sure that the plaster strip is extended beyond the hairline within the front because this is going to make a little cup or bowl that we’re going to pour Styrofoam in to make the form.

Smooth the plaster down with your hands, it’s a little messy so make sure that she’s wearing something I just not really, really expensive or warn her ahead of time and also you don’t want to be wearing really nice clothes when you do this either.

Smooth out the strips nicely when you’re applying them, fold them if you have to in order to achieve the contour that you need, the idea there is to get the first layer at least, as close as possible to head so you have an exact form of her scalp.

Once you have the first layer down you’re going to lay the second layer in the opposite direction. So with the first layers went from side to side, the next layer is going to go from front to back. This will build more strength because these molds have to be shift to Manila and I doubt seriously these people are gentle with the packages that they’re holding so I usually put three or four layers of plaster.

In between layers I often block with the towel by just placing towel over the clients head and pressing and plastering into the head. One more layer plaster should make it thick enough.

Transcription by: Scribe4you Transcription Services