How to Fit and Wear a Shirt and Tie
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See how the experts do it.
My name is Matt Landsberg with Eric Finn Custom Clothiers and we’re talking about
how to buy a suit and have a suit and shirt fit properly. Specifically now we’re going to
talk about how a shirt should fit and how it should be worn in a lot of detail aspects of
shirt and tie and how it all comes together.
In this case we’ll start of with the collar. Now Bryce has a thoroughly narrow face so to
best offset and again go back to creating an illusion, you want a wider spread collar. For
someone who has a narrower face it’s ideal to have a slimmer collar. When you have a
wider collar as Bryce does, you want a fairly large knot that fills up that space well and
you have a slimmer collar spread, you want a narrower collar.
The other thing about collars to keep in mind if you’re buying a collar because you can
get them fused or none fused. Now most shirts off the rack are fused because it’s quicker
to do. It’s easier in the manufacturing process but there are pros and cons to both. A lot of
guys are really interested in comfort especially around the neck.
In this case, Bryce has on a non-fused collar which is great, it’s going to be more
comfortable and it’s less stiff but the downside is you can see there’s just a fine wrinkle
there and you’ve really got a standard dry cleaner to get that pressed out very well
whereas on the flip side a fused collar doesn’t wrinkle as easily but again that’s very stiff,
a lot of times I see a guy running out of the office or wherever going to work and the tie
is going to be too short.
This is important details, especially if you’re in business is to get the tie length just right.
In this case you can see the tie goes right to the top of the belt buckle that’s perfect. If it’s
too short, now you’re going to look like a clown and I see a lot of guys old professors and
such where the tie was too long so that’s important when you’re tying the knot make sure
that the length of the tie goes right to the top of the belt buckle.
The other thing we’ll mention is cufflinks so it shows a few specifics to cufflinks, how to
apply them and what to look for in buying cufflinks. Now here you can see I’ve got a two
cufflinks built slightly differently. This one here is a little bit expensive when it does not
have a hinge here so you can see it’s fairly fixed. The downside of that is it doesn’t have
the same mobility. You accidentally drop it and step on it, something like that. You’re
probably going to break it.
Whereas this one here, it has a hinge built in so you got some flexibility, it’s a bit more
durable and probably won’t break because it’s not welded. You don’t have that point
that’s welded closed. As far as putting the cufflink end on a French cuff shirt, typically
when you’ve got a French cuff shirt, it’s going to come too long like this, what you want
to going to do is fold it in half or fold the cuff up as Bryce is doing here and now you can
put the cufflink through.
So once it’s folded you’ve got four button holes that should all be lined up take your
cufflink and just put it through each individual hole like so. It’s usually pretty easy when
you got somebody to do it for you. So that’s how it’s going to look when it’s finished.
One minor detail you want to notice as well as you’re going to want to button the placket
button. A lot of people overlook that.
Another thing that people don’t necessarily know when they’ve got a shirt with the
pocket, you know this one of course doesn’t have a pocket but if you do have a pocket,
the most you ever want to put in your pocket is well you can put business cards or
anything flat but the most you want to put in is a single pin and that’s going to be to the
center most part of the body so if you have a pen and the pocket spreads here you’re
going to want to put it to the most center aspect of the body to look for fast and otherwise
you’ve heard about professors with their pocket protectors in a 101 different pieces of
things in the pocket this is how it’s done properly.
Next we’re talking about what to look for in a quality suit.
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