Replacing cables in housings is one of those things that you can do particularly on the rail, but also on the shift that just makes such a difference to do it. I clip the end off of here. Pull off this cable seal, clip off this metal part here, because you're not going to be able to pull that through the noodle. This is the noodle, pull that out. There is a piece of plastic sheet inside there, so you want to keep that.
Whenever you notice a performance drop, and sticky brakes, or sticky shifting, it's a good idea to just replace your cables and housings. This has a barrel adjuster, and a locknut, and both of them have slots in them, and then the lever is also slotted. So you get those lined up. So this cable is die-drawn cable, it's very, very smooth. So the mountain bike is just kind of a barrel shape, and this is what's used for a road bike. So we are going to snip that off.
So a brake cable is that thick cable compared to a shift cable, which is quite a bit thinner, and brake housing is different from shift cable housing. This is coil wound. This is the flat coil, and the reason you want a pad on the brake, is because it's got extremely high pressure. As you pull the lever, the burst pressure is very high. So if you didn't have a way to constrain that pressure, then you could loose your brakes, clean, flatten and cut on it. So this obviously mash the end of the housing, so you want to kind of trim at it.
There is the one light part in there is the Teflon liner, you need to open it out with something. You also need something to reinforce the end of this. So you want to have a ferro along there, and that's what's going to keep that end from braking. So that goes onto the cable. The housing you want to make sure you have this Teflon liner in here. If you have online housing, it's just going to create a lot of friction of the cable sliding on the inside of those steel coils.
But this Teflon liner in there is critical, and as long as you have that, and you have good cable, then when it's new you really don't need to put any lubrication in there. Now we put our cable into the cable hook, and this is a fairly standard cable hook where there is a hole here that goes through both sides, and then there is a slot that only goes in halfway. You put the cable in, the cable head in, and this is actually free to rotate, but if you had one with a bigger head, sometimes it's not free to rotate.
Then put the cable in like that, and turn this a bit, turn that a bit, so that cable is not going to fall out of their noodle, it is going to go here. This housing come down like this. You want a little bit of curve, and then if you do decide, for instance, if you want to raise or lower your handlebar, later you don't necessarily have to replace your cable in housing at that time. Here we'll cut it right here.
So again we talked about the ferro, you need the ferro that fits over the cable housing in. Now at this end, you don't need a ferro, because there is one already built into that noodle. Then remember, we had a accordion seal. This seals the end of our noodle, and we're just going to snug this up a bit not very tight.
At this point, we want to look at the cable routing. When the brake is pulled, see if that's the way we like it. That's really not much lever pulling. You want to have some adjustment in here. So that cable is a little too tight, led a little out, like that. See now how it looks.
We're going to be happy with that just the way it is. So we're going to go ahead, and tighten this down, and now cut off the cable. There is a hook here for the spring behind the cable brake on, and you can either cut this short and leave it that way, or you can cut a little longer and bend the end around this hook. So we'll do that. Then you want to have a cable end. You're going to use this part of the cutter, clamp it, and then we can bend this behind that cable hook.
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