Phil Wood square taper bottom bracket; a square taper means that a square on the end and it's tapered. A two-degree taper is the international standard for that. This type at the end of the axle is what all early mountain bikes have, now most cranks have gone away from that.
This happens to be a sealed cartridge bearing bottom bracket. These rings fit over the cartridge bearings and they press against with the housing, and there is some lock type that comes with it.
An English bottom bracket is not only English size, 1.37 inchX24 threads per inch, but it's also the drive side is reverse threaded, it's left-hand thread and the non-drive side is right-hand threaded.
In this case, Phil Wood marks the drive side with a red, but you can tell if you put your finger nail there and you turn this clockwise, tighten it in ridy-tidy, you will see that your finger nail is moving inward on there. So this is a right-hand thread, standard thread, and this is what's going to go on non-drive side, and the drive side is reverse thread, I am going to screw a little lock tight on there. It's going to put a little on the thread.
So this one, there is the teeth that are cut away to fit over the cartridge bearing so that it's oriented that way. I am going to put this one in, I am just going to get the cup started in the threads. So the fill goes with the L toward the drive side that goes in, a little lock tight on that. Start that in. Now remember, this one is a reverse thread, so you need to go counter clockwise, tighten it. You are only going to start a little bit.
Now, I need the Phil Wood tool. I am going to go from the other side. We can actually tighten this down on one side, and then loosen it on the other, and alternately do that so it makes it easier to thread in. Keep tightening this cup in, losing this side up and now work on this side.
So now I am just trying to center this up, so that I have about the same amount of insertion of the cup on both sides and that one is sticking out away. So I am just going to bring this out to look pretty much even with the face. Tighten this down and put a wrench on each side and hold the other side while I tighten this one.
Turn the same amount, sticking out on both sides. Go ahead and tighten it. This is supposed to go to 25 foot-pounds, but most people aren't going to have this size of socket or crows foot or any other wrench that you can use on a torque wrench. So you just tighten it tightly against each other like that.
Now, I am going to install the crank arms, then you need a chainring, crank bolt. To tight it takes a 14 millimeter socket and this is the type that takes the eight millimeter hex key. So I am just going to go with the eight millimeter hex key type, grease the thread, so it will go in smoothly. Fix the eight millimeter a bit, tighten in and the put the left crank. For installing cranks, torque is really important for these as 435 inch-pounds.
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