I am going to show you how to install cleat. A lot of times when you go to remove your cleat, it's going to be all packed with dirt and stuff in here, and you want to make sure that your hex key gets inserted fully in there. So if it's packed up and you get the stuff out and it still doesn't go in, then take a hammer and tap this in, because you want to make sure it's engaged fully, especially before you use the ball end, you loosen it with that end. Then once it's loose, you can use the ball end, which is of course quicker way.
Now this cleat was getting pretty thin. Now, that's when you have real problems out on the trail is when you get it so worn that the tab breaks off.
As far as positioning the cleat goes, in general, having the ball of the foot over this pedal spin or a little behind it. You put your foot in there, find the ball of your foot, and you can mark it, and have the center of your cleat be centered on that line or a little behind it. Bigger the shoe, usually the deeper you want the foot into the pedal.
If you are happy with the cleat position that you have and you are using the same kind of pedal, then just mount and get in the exact same spot, it's going to work for you. So this already has these marks here, where it has ground itself in.
Now, this is the right shoe, this cleat is marked right. This is a time cleat. So you get a 13 degree release angle before it comes out. The time system is designed so that there is no -- the early ones, at least in later ones now have the tension adjustment, but earlier there wasn't, and the way the retention worked was that you just had a narrow or a wider release angle, and that's what protected you from premature release.
But if you like a wider release angle instead of this 13 degree release angle, then you can put the gauche or the left cleat onto the right shoe, and that's the way I prefer to run it, and then you have a 17 degree release angle. So that is still a release angle that I can get out of quickly enough.
Then usually with the time system it has got float, so there really isn't -- it's not real critical how you orient this parallel to the cleat slots is fine.
This thing moves, this plate here, and that's how you adjust it for an aft. Right now it's stuck, it stuck to a piece of tape that I have in there. But anyway, you can unstick that tape and move this around.
If you strip out the holes in the plate, in the position that you want, you can take the plate back up, flip it around, put it back in, and then use the other set of holes. That's the biggest reason I can see for having two sets of holes there. It's not too hard to strip these out, so you want to be careful. I usually put a little chain lube in the holes there, and then again, I am going to mount the left cleat.
What does happen with a new pair of shoes or a new different kind of cleats or cleat mounted in a different spot on your shoe, is you will have compression of the shoe sole over time, so you need to check these, especially when they are new, like everyday, and make sure you get them tightened up. But when you are tightening them, do not over torque them, really choke up on the -- don't grab out here, just choke up like this. Then bring a four millimeter hex key along with you while you ride, because these things can loosen up, and when it loosens up, you actually can't get out of the pedal.
Now, the recommended torque is five to six newton meters, so I will set this on five. You can see how we did with -- see, I already had gotten that torqued by just using the -- I will try six, by just using the torque wrench, the hex key choked up. So I was at the recommended torque, just doing it this way.
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