How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly Video

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How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly

How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly And now the Canadian Black Dose Hair Wing. We’ll do another hair wing Atlantic salmon fly pattern called the Black Dose. I've already put the tip tag assembly in place. This was done just like we did the double-butt on the Dick's Conglomerate it. We simply used the silver tinsel and then just the green. Here comes some material called Krystal Flash. There's also a material similar to it, Krystal hair and I think some new branch to I'm not familiar with. Go to sparkly stuff and simply cut off maybe half of those, some strands or so and tie it on back here. It is so much easier and cheaper and more available in golden pheasant these days. Just make yourself a nice sparkly little tail about that long, all there is to it. Probably, I got a couple two million there, I’ll just weave one or two out a depression maybe and I'll always believe that more is better. We don’t want too much spark but—a little bit. We got the fishes attention and trim off this here, patch very neatly. So you don’t form a bump. Okay, as we Dick's Conglomerate, we’re going to use silver oval tinsel ribbing. We get a piece of that about five or six inches long and tie it in as we did before. On the rear back is the hook right in this area here. I'm not going to chop that off because I don’t want any bumps in here. I'm going to bind that down along the shank of the hook to keep things smooth in the under body. Let’s see if I can keep that against the back side of the hook. This one, I can cut it off and I’ll get it down into a lower portion of the cutting blades and save my scissors. I'll never make another down and back layer of thread. Strictly for the purpose of trying to smooth things out so that the next one will go on nicely. We’re going to use floss traditional salmon fly tying material and I'm going to tie it on at the front of the hook using the following technique. For things that have no real whether you might call it stiffness to them and would flop around if you just try to work the thread over like that, I seize it with both thumb and forefinger and bring it up underneath the hook on the tension right in front of the thread, nail it with my little finger and my left hand bring the thread up and over and makes it very easy to tie it into position that way without losing it. I can now trim off these butts just like this and we’re ready to go. I'm going to make very sure I've secured that because floss is slippery and you can pull it out when you begin to wrap if you're not careful. The idea here is to get all four strands to act as one. You try to get them to lie flat, go on smoothly. Floss is not my favorite material. The idea is to apply the optimal amount of tension. Too much tension and you hear a ridgy effect. Too little tension and those spread too much and the individual strands will start to break away from the main strands and once they're isolated, they will break and you'll have fuzz looking at the sides of your fly and it’s just horrible. I come back here, pull it right up over the rear portion of the tail, just a tiny bit to help bring that together and neaten it up and then a I start forward. Okay, now we've reach this part now. Remember I told you before that once you double wrap any material, be at floss, tinsel or whatever, you can remove one of the wraps you tied it on with; that will reduce some bulk. Just back them off as it hold itself from place and secure with some good firm thread wraps and then dispense with the excess. Now, we are going to rib and this time, we’re going to do it on a classic manner, going in the same direction as the floss, not reverse ribbing. We try to keep them evenly spaced, just rolling up the hook. You got to be careful with oval tinsel not to be too much of this stuff up and down because even the best poly oval tinsel, you can pull the silver material off the thread core. There is my classic five to turns, we can stop right there. You have to know I try to work my way down into the lower portion of the cutting blades and bury the little tip. For this fly, let's not do a collar; let's do a beard of hackle. We use a single black feather. This is a soft one from Hen Saddle—black. It could be a natural black too; that would be fine. I'm simply going to do just like we did with the Dick's Conglomerate except we’re using one feather instead of two just stroke into that decision and I tie it in about a little notch where at the quill is exposed. Now, it’s going to become a bearded hackle and this is simply a matter or stroking the fibers down either side to that side of the hook to which they're naturally want to go. As you stroke this down, you will find that there will be a few that don’t naturally want to go to either side because they're right on top of the hook. Once you’ve isolated those, don’t force them to go either way because they're just going to make a mess. They’re not going to form themselves neatly and look good as a hackle. Take a pair of tweezers and get down right with a base and simply twist them off like this. I would advice you not to cut them off because even the very best scissors will leave tiny little tag ends sticking up, they will interfere with your wing process. So, tweeze them off then stroke them down to form a beard. Really soft feathers such as hen hackle either from a cape or from a saddle which this is, you may not have to do anything more than that. As you can see, that’s formed itself into a pretty good beard. However, I am going to show you just a little trick and some of the purest may gas for gag when they say this. But if you have problems making the stay in the bearded position, take a little tiny drop of Zap-a-Gap, not very much and here's what you do. You hold them exactly as you want them to end up. Take a little bit of Zap-a-Gap right there and let it run down into the fiber themselves; just right in that area and you rub with the dry end of a toothpick and the result is a perfect beard. What I've done here is I’ve created a thread base for a multi part hair wing. I know you use squirrel tail here. Squirrel tail is a pretty nasty stuff and I’m starting to use other materials as they become available but I'd like you to know how to use it because it is widely available. This is dyed gray squirrel tail is what it is. We’re going to use four layers; yellow, red, blue and then a layer of natural fox squirrel on top. Okay? Now, you remember how we did Dick's Conglomerate with layers? We do the same thing here except the layers will be different colors. So, you'd be able to see them much more clearly. Don’t use too much, each layer needs to be visible but not intrusive on the next layer. Again, clean out any short stuff that’s in there. You won't find any under fur or anything like that in squirrel tail but you may find some shorties. Again, don’t stock them. The length should be just about equal to a vertical line tangent to the bend of the hook, stop it right about there. And do you remember pre-cutting or pre-trimming? We’ll do the same thing here on a slight angle and we’re going to force that down on top of the hook to make the thread up and over. Try to be neat and wrap it backwards to where you hackle begins. For the first layer, it will lie just about like that. One more layer thread, don’t look too much but enough so that you can create separation when you put the next layer on, so your colors look like a married wing. Now, we’re going to apply the red layer, red dye squirrel tail exactly the same fashion, an equal quality of the yellow that you'll see up there. Keep in mind that we reestablished our thread base here, so that I’m tying hair to thread. Don’t tie hair to hair because what's going to happen is they will mix like that. That’s not what we want; we want a layering effect which simulates the old, beautiful, married wing from the British classic traditional fly dyeing school. We’re going to make this the same length as the first. I’m going to precut just like we did before. Bring it on top of the hook to make the thread over and then the make real, good, firm tight wraps working towards the rear. And now, we start to see a layer of red on top to the layer of yellow and that’s going to get better as we go because I have a way of enhancing that at the end of the wing tying process. Our fly is almost done. I’m going to do the whip finish and I’m going to do one more little thing. This is optional, however, I very strongly recommend it. About a living through chemistry again, let's go to old Zap-a-Gap. What I did with Dick's Conglomerate, exactly the same thing. Even more important here because now it will secure the wings but as I pinch the wings together like this and as I rub the Zap-a-Gap and they get dry, what will happen is I enhance and reinforce the layering effect with the wing. You see what happened there? Now you can see all the components quite clearly and I got exactly the right angle on the wing that I want. This may sound like cheating but when I’m working on squirrel tail, I cheat—So, let's put a little head cement on here. On this fly, you might want to use black head cement if you want to get a really glossy effect. Of course, you can always glue clearly here on first and a couple of blacks and then some more clear, all depending on how much secure about the appearance of you fly. As far as protection is concern, I'm sure that two layers of head cement are efficient. So here we have a Canadian Hair-Wing version of the Black Dose.

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How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly

And now the Canadian Black Dose Hair Wing.

We’ll do another hair wing Atlantic salmon fly pattern called the Black Dose. I've already put the tip tag assembly in place. This was done just like we did the double-butt on the Dick's Conglomerate it. We simply used the silver tinsel and then just the green. Here comes some material called Krystal Flash. There's also a material similar to it, Krystal hair and I think some new branch to I'm not familiar with. Go to sparkly stuff and simply cut off maybe half of those, some strands or so and tie it on back here. It is so much easier and cheaper and more available in golden pheasant these days. Just make yourself a nice sparkly little tail about that long, all there is to it.

Probably, I got a couple two million there, I’ll just weave one or two out a depression maybe and I'll always believe that more is better. We don’t want too much spark but—a little bit. We got the fishes attention and trim off this here, patch very neatly. So you don’t form a bump.

Okay, as we Dick's Conglomerate, we’re going to use silver oval tinsel ribbing. We get a piece of that about five or six inches long and tie it in as we did before. On the rear back is the hook right in this area here. I'm not going to chop that off because I don’t want any bumps in here. I'm going to bind that down along the shank of the hook to keep things smooth in the under body. Let’s see if I can keep that against the back side of the hook.

This one, I can cut it off and I’ll get it down into a lower portion of the cutting blades and save my scissors. I'll never make another down and back layer of thread. Strictly for the purpose of trying to smooth things out so that the next one will go on nicely. We’re going to use floss traditional salmon fly tying material and I'm going to tie it on at the front of the hook using the following technique.

For things that have no real whether you might call it stiffness to them and would flop around if you just try to work the thread over like that, I seize it with both thumb and forefinger and bring it up underneath the hook on the tension right in front of the thread, nail it with my little finger and my left hand bring the thread up and over and makes it very easy to tie it into position that way without losing it.

I can now trim off these butts just like this and we’re ready to go. I'm going to make very sure I've secured that because floss is slippery and you can pull it out when you begin to wrap if you're not careful. The idea here is to get all four strands to act as one. You try to get them to lie flat, go on smoothly. Floss is not my favorite material. The idea is to apply the optimal amount of tension. Too much tension and you hear a ridgy effect. Too little tension and those spread too much and the individual strands will start to break away from the main strands and once they're isolated, they will break and you'll have fuzz looking at the sides of your fly and it’s just horrible.

I come back here, pull it right up over the rear portion of the tail, just a tiny bit to help bring that together and neaten it up and then a I start forward. Okay, now we've reach this part now. Remember I told you before that once you double wrap any material, be at floss, tinsel or whatever, you can remove one of the wraps you tied it on with; that will reduce some bulk. Just back them off as it hold itself from place and secure with some good firm thread wraps and then dispense with the excess.

Now, we are going to rib and this time, we’re going to do it on a classic manner, going in the same direction as the floss, not reverse ribbing. We try to keep them evenly spaced, just rolling up the hook. You got to be careful with oval tinsel not to be too much of this stuff up and down because even the best poly oval tinsel, you can pull the silver material off the thread core. There is my classic five to turns, we can stop right there. You have to know I try to work my way down into the lower portion of the cutting blades and bury the little tip.

For this fly, let's not do a collar; let's do a beard of hackle. We use a single black feather. This is a soft one from Hen Saddle—black. It could be a natural black too; that would be fine. I'm simply going to do just like we did with the Dick's Conglomerate except we’re using one feather instead of two just stroke into that decision and I tie it in about a little notch where at the quill is exposed. Now, it’s going to become a bearded hackle and this is simply a matter or stroking the fibers down either side to that side of the hook to which they're naturally want to go. As you stroke this down, you will find that there will be a few that don’t naturally want to go to either side because they're right on top of the hook. Once you’ve isolated those, don’t force them to go either way because they're just going to make a mess. They’re not going to form themselves neatly and look good as a hackle.

Take a pair of tweezers and get down right with a base and simply twist them off like this. I would advice you not to cut them off because even the very best scissors will leave tiny little tag ends sticking up, they will interfere with your wing process. So, tweeze them off then stroke them down to form a beard.

Really soft feathers such as hen hackle either from a cape or from a saddle which this is, you may not have to do anything more than that. As you can see, that’s formed itself into a pretty good beard. However, I am going to show you just a little trick and some of the purest may gas for gag when they say this. But if you have problems making the stay in the bearded position, take a little tiny drop of Zap-a-Gap, not very much and here's what you do. You hold them exactly as you want them to end up. Take a little bit of Zap-a-Gap right there and let it run down into the fiber themselves; just right in that area and you rub with the dry end of a toothpick and the result is a perfect beard.

What I've done here is I’ve created a thread base for a multi part hair wing. I know you use squirrel tail here. Squirrel tail is a pretty nasty stuff and I’m starting to use other materials as they become available but I'd like you to know how to use it because it is widely available. This is dyed gray squirrel tail is what it is. We’re going to use four layers; yellow, red, blue and then a layer of natural fox squirrel on top. Okay?

Now, you remember how we did Dick's Conglomerate with layers? We do the same thing here except the layers will be different colors. So, you'd be able to see them much more clearly. Don’t use too much, each layer needs to be visible but not intrusive on the next layer. Again, clean out any short stuff that’s in there. You won't find any under fur or anything like that in squirrel tail but you may find some shorties. Again, don’t stock them. The length should be just about equal to a vertical line tangent to the bend of the hook, stop it right about there.

And do you remember pre-cutting or pre-trimming? We’ll do the same thing here on a slight angle and we’re going to force that down on top of the hook to make the thread up and over. Try to be neat and wrap it backwards to where you hackle begins. For the first layer, it will lie just about like that. One more layer thread, don’t look too much but enough so that you can create separation when you put the next layer on, so your colors look like a married wing.

Now, we’re going to apply the red layer, red dye squirrel tail exactly the same fashion, an equal quality of the yellow that you'll see up there. Keep in mind that we reestablished our thread base here, so that I’m tying hair to thread. Don’t tie hair to hair because what's going to happen is they will mix like that. That’s not what we want; we want a layering effect which simulates the old, beautiful, married wing from the British classic traditional fly dyeing school.

We’re going to make this the same length as the first. I’m going to precut just like we did before. Bring it on top of the hook to make the thread over and then the make real, good, firm tight wraps working towards the rear. And now, we start to see a layer of red on top to the layer of yellow and that’s going to get better as we go because I have a way of enhancing that at the end of the wing tying process.

Our fly is almost done. I’m going to do the whip finish and I’m going to do one more little thing. This is optional, however, I very strongly recommend it. About a living through chemistry again, let's go to old Zap-a-Gap. What I did with Dick's Conglomerate, exactly the same thing. Even more important here because now it will secure the wings but as I pinch the wings together like this and as I rub the Zap-a-Gap and they get dry, what will happen is I enhance and reinforce the layering effect with the wing. You see what happened there? Now you can see all the components quite clearly and I got exactly the right angle on the wing that I want.

This may sound like cheating but when I’m working on squirrel tail, I cheat—So, let's put a little head cement on here. On this fly, you might want to use black head cement if you want to get a really glossy effect. Of course, you can always glue clearly here on first and a couple of blacks and then some more clear, all depending on how much secure about the appearance of you fly. As far as protection is concern, I'm sure that two layers of head cement are efficient. So here we have a Canadian Hair-Wing version of the Black Dose.

Transcription by: Scribe4you Transcription Services

How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly

How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly -

How to Make the Black Dose Fishing Fly -