Okay, this is how to remove a self extracting crank from a square tape or bottom racket. That's that. Self extracting cranks save you a relatively time consuming step by not requiring you to have a crank puller. You just need to dig a little mud out of there.
So then you need a spline Bottom Bracket Tool. This is a standard Park DVT 2. It fits on a 3/8 drive socket.
Now, the non-drive side is normal right hand thread, so you unscrew the cup. The drive side is left hand thread, so I need to go the opposite; I need to go clockwise to unscrew it.
That was a cartridge bottom bracket. There is no way to take it apart. So if the bearings aren't working, you have to replace the entire cartridge. I am going to put some grease inside the cup and on outside of that cartridge. These ones came out nice and clean. I am going to install the drive side cup first, then its left hand thread, so it goes in that way. Put the cartridge in from the other side and get that cup started as well.
The drive side cup has a lip on it. You can see that lip there, and that needs to go all the way up against the face of the bottom bracket shell. So this one is the one you tighten in first, and then you finish the tightening on the non-drive side.
Shimano's torques spec on these cups is 425 inch pounds to 610 inch pounds. So back to the 0, with 450. That's now 450. We will just leave it at that. Turn it around. Flip this, because I am tightening the other direction.
So with the self extracting crew system, it's worth putting a little bit of grease inside the ball threads. I am going to do that on both sides. You don't want grease on the outer face. You don't want grease on the tapers, and put that on. Torque spec for that crank bolt, 285 to 435. Let's go back to 430.
Make sure you got the chain, and on the bottom bracket shell. So again, I have this torque crank set for the head to click over, when I get to 430 inch pounds, and there it is. I am going to put the chain back on and good to go.
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