How to Tie a Black Nose Dace Streamer Fly Video

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How to Tie a Black Nose Dace Streamer Fly

Now I am going to tie a fly that's called a Black Nose Dace. It's a streamer. It's a winged streamer, a hair-wing streamer. It's meant to simulate - actually the actual name is, the Black Nose Dace is a real minnow, that is a river minnow. It actually is a very nice little fly for working through fast water, to entice fish to actually come out of their hide and attack the minnow. It's a fly that actually is pretty simple to tie and it incorporates a tinsel body and a dear hair wing. Pretty much just a very sparse kind of a fly, but you want the minnow to be sparse because it's meant to zip the water very quickly like a minnow darting about. So I am going to start out first of all by explaining the hook. I am using this time a longer shanked size 6 hook that has a limerick bend which is little bit more of a triangular kind of a bend to the hook. And I am using a six-ott thread so you have a little bit stronger thread. We begin at the beginning of the hook by the hook eye. Let's start the thread by wrapping over itself, hold that thread back against that hook, and wrap all the way back to the bend. I am going to stop just about even with the hook point, number one. Again cut off the excess. Now this is actually going to have an underbody which will give the fly not only a little bit of thickness to the tinsel body but also a little flash of red. Red is often something that's good to have in a fly because of the fact that it does often entice a striking fish. So I am going to do the color red. It just makes fly fish go crazy. You will notice a lot of lures throughout the ages have been made with red and a lot of flies that have attractive pattern have red as well, something that just makes the fish get excited. It's most likely because of the fact that it looks like its blood, like an injured minnow. So I am going to tie this in first. This should sit on the top of the hook. You want to wrap this around. So I lay it across like this. It's going to act as an underbody. It's a softer material that makes it easier to wrap tinsel on top of. So I think it's a nice idea, even if you don't leave a red tag hanging off the back. Sometimes I incorporate some kind of an under dubbing before I put on tinsel just to make sure I have a nice smooth taper, also a nice smooth even body that goes up towards the eye. Okay. Hook that away. Next I am going to tie in a rib. This fly doesn't have to have a rib on it, but it's a nice little added feature. I have some very, very fine tinsel, you can go with a little bit larger, but you want an oval silver tinsel for this. I am using a small, small piece of tinsel. I will wrap back again to where I first began. I am going to tie in that tinsel. It's going to be a fully composed tinsel body which means it's all going to be silver tinsel but I have a little bit of red just to add a little bit more of a sparkle of the fly and also to make it a more attractive fly. I am using this rather large flat silver tinsel. You can see this flat piece of tinsel that actually is going to be wrapped on now. Instead of tying it in at the back, I am going to go to the front again and start up here. I have a fairly long piece there. Get that started, tie that in. I am going to go a little further up. So I am going to actually make sure not to have too long of a head with this. That would be pretty unattractive. Okay. There we go. I will just begin this wrapping this in and I will turn it and wrap down the shank. I want to be super careful about how nicely I cover this at this point because I am turning back over it again the other direction. Down to the end, turn and return to the front. This way if there are any gaps - okay. Now I am going to wrap in my oval tinsel, you can notice there's a couple of spots here that are kind of opened up a little bit underneath here and often if I have that ribbon come across, I can hide that. Okay. So I am going to wrap this right if I can over each of those little areas where the tinsel joins, it comes along. You will notice that you won't see that anymore. You go to the end, you won't notice the little gaps in that tinsel. Okay. We have a nicely wrapped tinsel body. Now the tricky part, that was the easy part. Now I am going to add a wing. This is going to be a dear hair or buck tail wing. I have got here a black dyed buck tail which is just a white tail dear. Tail dyed black and here is a natural white tail dear tail. This one is a little bit light on top. So I am going to dig a little bit underneath this top layer to get in some of the little bit more of a round layer. I start off first of all by laying in a layer. It's going to be a three parts wing. A layer of white; so I am going to stack some hair when I cut this out from the lower section here. I don't want to get into the kinky fibers that are up at the hair tip. You want to stay more in the lower section. So I will just cut some out here. It's going to be a relatively sparse wing, because I don't want to have too much, because I am going to be putting in three layers, three layers of material. What I will do is I will take this with my third and fourth finger. I will actually grab these longest ones here and stack it back ourself again. Okay. I am going to go to the back and make sure if I am having losing ones they come out. No I am going to put into the hair stacker. That's this tool right here where I can just stick these ends into this funnel like piece. Get them all in there. If they don't cooperate, I will just make them cooperate. I am going to smack this off camera onto a hard surface, get them all down. Now I can pull this out and it should be pretty well stacked up. If you are not perfect, at the end of the world that looks pretty good. Okay. If I have got a couple that are running crazy, I will just pull them out. Once again the short ones are my biggest concerns so I get rid of those. Okay. What I am going to do now is I am going to lay that across the back here. Now I have to ignore this, this little piece here in terms of how long it is and I want to use that as part of the fly. I am going to cut that back and put that into the next -- next time I put a wing I am going to cut that off. Remember when it comes back, it was just a little bit past the end of the hook. I want to go way out behind and I want to go back just a little bit. I hold down to it with the pinch method that I have been showing where I take the index finger and the thumb and hold them tight above the wrap that I am going to be making. Okay. And I make a loose, loose one first, right? Another loose and then pull it tight. I want to keep these on top of the hook. I don't want these slipping down off the side. I am adding a lot more attention now. I am going to wrap a little bit over to the front. Each time I put one of these on, I am going to want to put head cement in. I will show that right now. I am going to cut this out and I am going to cut each of these out a slant. It is very important that I am going to come in an angle, going away from the hook eye upwards that batch, and cut it on a slant like this. So it's not going to be just a straight cut, but a slant. And I will slant it. This time I am going to cut this tag off at this point I want to cut my wing. But I want to make it shorter than this. I was going to snip it off just like that, and that's what we are going to have and it's called a tag, this little piece. That's a proper terminology for a streamer. Not really a tail, it's called the tag. And it's just a little bit of information that helps to give a little more excitement to that fly. The next layer is going to be black. I forget to put in my head cement before I fixed this one, when I wanted to get this one started. Again, I am going to take this from the mid action if I can, down to lower half of the tip, because it gets too fuzzy if you look at the mid section of this place, of the tail. You can see that these are a lot more straight, these fibers. So I am going to come in and just take some out of here. I don't need much -- okay. Pick out a small section of that. Once again clean it up by pulling out these back pieces. Usually if you are taking it from the edge, you are not going to have to worry too much about the under fur. These are actually - we talked about with the hair's mask, there is the under fur and the guard hair. These are actually guard hairs too. But there isn't an often lot of fuzz underneath, sometimes you will find that in some of these tails but this one seems to be pretty good. Now once again I can do a little hand stacking in the beginning if I want to pull away the shorter ones and just kind of get them aligned before I start with my hair stacker. Okay. I will take the hair stacker, and certainly in terms of its actions outcome, it is the same. There is no need to worry about that. But if you want to really stick to the pattern, the recipe, you can find a black bear. It's not hard to purchase that. I am afraid this one might not have stacked so nicely, I am going to check and see. These are a little bit twisted looking kind of fibers. I will just pull out the one and that should be okay. Okay. Now I will take that and you can see and I am going to lay that now on top of that layer and it should go a little bit longer than that one, just a tad, so it's going to kind stack back, just a little bit longer, okay. We will keep those a nice tight bundle. You know what I forgot to do? I had some of that - let me do it before I go any further, because I want to make sure that I get those fibers nicely soaked up with some cement so that they don't move. These need to be really secure, for quite a bit I will be afraid to get it in there, nice and tight. Just stick it underneath and moving around. There we go. Each layer I am going to do that. Okay. Grab it again. Lay it in the pinch method again, a little bit longer than the previous wing. Squeeze it in nice and tight. Make that loose loop, it's hard to see where is the black, but I am bringing it down not super tight yet. Now I can tighten it up a little bit. Okay. Okay, same thing again. I am going to take this, I am going to clip it off at an angle, so it starts to move down towards that hook eye. I am going to have a nice tapered bullet shaped head, okay. And because of that fact that I forgot last time, I waited too long, I am going to put this in right away, my head cement, a lot of it. I want to make sure it's really going to have a nice secure connection. I want that opening up and have the fibers pull out from the back when a fish grabs on to it, because that does happen. Not the brown. As I said before this particular tail is a little bit light. I am going to try to dig in a little bit underneath there so I get some of the darker brown. Doesn't have to be absolutely tan brown, you can have some white pieces in there. But I want it to a nice brown. And those black -- they are imitating most likely kind of a olivy brown they are trying to capture that. Here we go. Pull out those loose ones in the back. Once again we will put in the hair stacker. If this one doesn't do what I wanted to, I am going to show you how I can do it with my home made hair stacker which is an open stacker and I can control what I am doing little easier to see what's happening. Smack it a couple of times. I like this smack the top down a little bit too just in case they don't want to move. I will just kind of force them down. What's happening is of course the tips are all hitting the bottom and they are going to flattened out. The goal is to get them so they are all the same, this one just worked out pretty well. Okay. Here they are. Not too bad. I will pull a couple of ones that I don't like out of there. I am also not crazy when I see that there is one that got turned around and we have got a sharp cut off end sticking out that side. So I will pull this out too. Okay. Now I take that, and it's offy-light. So keep that in mind that if you have a little bit darker brown buck tail, it might actually be a little bit more true to what this pad is supposed to do. But it certainly is going to work just as effectively if doesn't. Pull that down, holding it above just like before. Pinch it, it's got to be held and I don't want to lose that pinch and now I can go it tight. Now I am going to have a nice big head on this fly, and that's because of the fact that I have got a pretty big layering system going here, but you will see -- it actually adds to that kind of a minnowy effect of this fly, looks like a minnow. Scissors. Not the same ones I have been using, but can cut these off on an angle. It kind of angles it up away from the hook eye. Clean that area out nice and clean so you don't have anything that sticks out at the end there. Just trim that back so that I have got a nice base throughout my thread. Okay. Now, we are nearly done. Cut cement before I finish wrapping it down. I am going to stick it inside of there, so that I have got a tight inside. All saturated. So I don't have to worry about that going apart even if my head doesn't hold them so well, that symmetry keeps them in there. I am going to wrap up to the back again, so I can level out, even out that beginning point on the head. So it's a nice clean shape. I am going to wrap over these fibers before I finish that up. You can see that they are going to slide down in here. So I am going to go in different directions in the beginning just to get it to stay. I am not liking what's happening so far. It's going to be a little bit of a chore to get this to be a nice clean head because I have got a lot of slipping going on. I will build up some down below first. Okay. This does take quite a bit of thread to fill in this thing. And I am always constantly using my fingernails when I do this to arrange things the way I want them. Because in the final stage I am going to control what happens, I am just going to be wrapping like this, smooth tapered down towards that point. Right now I am a bit being controlled by the thread. Okay, I kind of feel, it kind of loosened up there too on this side but they will go away. Here we go. Okay. I am going to bring it down to the hook eye. See I have got couple of loose one there and this is something that will happen unless you are really luck out in the first shot. And quite often you would get that effect off the slipping hack or the slipping thread. Not to worry. Okay. Now I am going to - we are finished. A little more outside, some more room to play with. Okay. Move that down, move that out holding tight. Okay. One leg got away there. I am going to put a lot of head cement on that fly. Now I often even put a layer of head cement on, let it dry for a bit and then come back to it. So I can make sure that's it is a nice smooth shiny bullet head on this thing basically. So a little bit thin, this is meant to be thin. So it soaks into the fibers. You just see by doing this and even slightly -- puckers and different things that we saw in the thread will go away if we put enough of this on. It's like varnishing wood you can make it very smooth if you layered on enough. Let that dry for a second, that would just soak in. I can cut that away. Okay. I will let it dry for a few more seconds. I will make sure it aligns the way I want it to be aligned. Here it again. Now there is a specific kind of a lack, that can also be here for streamers I have. Lack or clear, it's a head lack and gives you a very, very solid shiny kind of a head which, something else you could tie a lot a stream or something better to pick up. It takes less of this to do that, that's one of the reasons why, this is more or less designed to go inside of - this runs on a smaller fly. Okay, I will check my hook eye a little bit. Seems like I am fine. Okay. Take a look here, we can see what I have got. I have got the wing nice and even and flat. It should look flat like this from the top. It shouldn't be off layered out but all stacked nice and flat. Look underneath here you can see that the ribs are all nice and even and that completes the Black Nose Dace.

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The Best Saltwater Fishing Flies are a Mouse Click

Saltwater fishing flies have come a long way. Nowadays there are plenty of tools for do it yourself fly tiers and hundreds of supply outlets. Then again, today you can buy ready made flies from just about anywhere in the world, with just a few the cl

http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/the-best-saltwater-fishing-flies-are-a-mouse-click-away-422965.html/9461024403

Now I am going to tie a fly that's called a Black Nose Dace. It's a streamer. It's a winged streamer, a hair-wing streamer. It's meant to simulate - actually the actual name is, the Black Nose Dace is a real minnow, that is a river minnow. It actually is a very nice little fly for working through fast water, to entice fish to actually come out of their hide and attack the minnow.

It's a fly that actually is pretty simple to tie and it incorporates a tinsel body and a dear hair wing. Pretty much just a very sparse kind of a fly, but you want the minnow to be sparse because it's meant to zip the water very quickly like a minnow darting about.

So I am going to start out first of all by explaining the hook. I am using this time a longer shanked size 6 hook that has a limerick bend which is little bit more of a triangular kind of a bend to the hook. And I am using a six-ott thread so you have a little bit stronger thread. We begin at the beginning of the hook by the hook eye. Let's start the thread by wrapping over itself, hold that thread back against that hook, and wrap all the way back to the bend.

I am going to stop just about even with the hook point, number one. Again cut off the excess. Now this is actually going to have an underbody which will give the fly not only a little bit of thickness to the tinsel body but also a little flash of red. Red is often something that's good to have in a fly because of the fact that it does often entice a striking fish.

So I am going to do the color red. It just makes fly fish go crazy. You will notice a lot of lures throughout the ages have been made with red and a lot of flies that have attractive pattern have red as well, something that just makes the fish get excited. It's most likely because of the fact that it looks like its blood, like an injured minnow. So I am going to tie this in first. This should sit on the top of the hook. You want to wrap this around.

So I lay it across like this. It's going to act as an underbody. It's a softer material that makes it easier to wrap tinsel on top of. So I think it's a nice idea, even if you don't leave a red tag hanging off the back. Sometimes I incorporate some kind of an under dubbing before I put on tinsel just to make sure I have a nice smooth taper, also a nice smooth even body that goes up towards the eye. Okay.

Hook that away. Next I am going to tie in a rib. This fly doesn't have to have a rib on it, but it's a nice little added feature. I have some very, very fine tinsel, you can go with a little bit larger, but you want an oval silver tinsel for this. I am using a small, small piece of tinsel. I will wrap back again to where I first began. I am going to tie in that tinsel.

It's going to be a fully composed tinsel body which means it's all going to be silver tinsel but I have a little bit of red just to add a little bit more of a sparkle of the fly and also to make it a more attractive fly. I am using this rather large flat silver tinsel. You can see this flat piece of tinsel that actually is going to be wrapped on now.

Instead of tying it in at the back, I am going to go to the front again and start up here. I have a fairly long piece there. Get that started, tie that in. I am going to go a little further up. So I am going to actually make sure not to have too long of a head with this. That would be pretty unattractive. Okay. There we go. I will just begin this wrapping this in and I will turn it and wrap down the shank. I want to be super careful about how nicely I cover this at this point because I am turning back over it again the other direction.

Down to the end, turn and return to the front. This way if there are any gaps - okay. Now I am going to wrap in my oval tinsel, you can notice there's a couple of spots here that are kind of opened up a little bit underneath here and often if I have that ribbon come across, I can hide that. Okay.

So I am going to wrap this right if I can over each of those little areas where the tinsel joins, it comes along. You will notice that you won't see that anymore. You go to the end, you won't notice the little gaps in that tinsel. Okay. We have a nicely wrapped tinsel body. Now the tricky part, that was the easy part. Now I am going to add a wing.

This is going to be a dear hair or buck tail wing. I have got here a black dyed buck tail which is just a white tail dear. Tail dyed black and here is a natural white tail dear tail. This one is a little bit light on top. So I am going to dig a little bit underneath this top layer to get in some of the little bit more of a round layer. I start off first of all by laying in a layer. It's going to be a three parts wing. A layer of white; so I am going to stack some hair when I cut this out from the lower section here.

I don't want to get into the kinky fibers that are up at the hair tip. You want to stay more in the lower section. So I will just cut some out here. It's going to be a relatively sparse wing, because I don't want to have too much, because I am going to be putting in three layers, three layers of material. What I will do is I will take this with my third and fourth finger. I will actually grab these longest ones here and stack it back ourself again. Okay.

I am going to go to the back and make sure if I am having losing ones they come out. No I am going to put into the hair stacker. That's this tool right here where I can just stick these ends into this funnel like piece. Get them all in there. If they don't cooperate, I will just make them cooperate. I am going to smack this off camera onto a hard surface, get them all down. Now I can pull this out and it should be pretty well stacked up. If you are not perfect, at the end of the world that looks pretty good. Okay.

If I have got a couple that are running crazy, I will just pull them out. Once again the short ones are my biggest concerns so I get rid of those. Okay. What I am going to do now is I am going to lay that across the back here. Now I have to ignore this, this little piece here in terms of how long it is and I want to use that as part of the fly. I am going to cut that back and put that into the next -- next time I put a wing I am going to cut that off.

Remember when it comes back, it was just a little bit past the end of the hook. I want to go way out behind and I want to go back just a little bit. I hold down to it with the pinch method that I have been showing where I take the index finger and the thumb and hold them tight above the wrap that I am going to be making. Okay. And I make a loose, loose one first, right? Another loose and then pull it tight.

I want to keep these on top of the hook. I don't want these slipping down off the side. I am adding a lot more attention now. I am going to wrap a little bit over to the front. Each time I put one of these on, I am going to want to put head cement in. I will show that right now. I am going to cut this out and I am going to cut each of these out a slant.

It is very important that I am going to come in an angle, going away from the hook eye upwards that batch, and cut it on a slant like this. So it's not going to be just a straight cut, but a slant. And I will slant it. This time I am going to cut this tag off at this point I want to cut my wing. But I want to make it shorter than this. I was going to snip it off just like that, and that's what we are going to have and it's called a tag, this little piece.

That's a proper terminology for a streamer. Not really a tail, it's called the tag. And it's just a little bit of information that helps to give a little more excitement to that fly. The next layer is going to be black. I forget to put in my head cement before I fixed this one, when I wanted to get this one started. Again, I am going to take this from the mid action if I can, down to lower half of the tip, because it gets too fuzzy if you look at the mid section of this place, of the tail.

You can see that these are a lot more straight, these fibers. So I am going to come in and just take some out of here. I don't need much -- okay. Pick out a small section of that. Once again clean it up by pulling out these back pieces. Usually if you are taking it from the edge, you are not going to have to worry too much about the under fur. These are actually - we talked about with the hair's mask, there is the under fur and the guard hair. These are actually guard hairs too. But there isn't an often lot of fuzz underneath, sometimes you will find that in some of these tails but this one seems to be pretty good.

Now once again I can do a little hand stacking in the beginning if I want to pull away the shorter ones and just kind of get them aligned before I start with my hair stacker. Okay. I will take the hair stacker, and certainly in terms of its actions outcome, it is the same. There is no need to worry about that. But if you want to really stick to the pattern, the recipe, you can find a black bear. It's not hard to purchase that.

I am afraid this one might not have stacked so nicely, I am going to check and see. These are a little bit twisted looking kind of fibers. I will just pull out the one and that should be okay. Okay. Now I will take that and you can see and I am going to lay that now on top of that layer and it should go a little bit longer than that one, just a tad, so it's going to kind stack back, just a little bit longer, okay.

We will keep those a nice tight bundle. You know what I forgot to do? I had some of that - let me do it before I go any further, because I want to make sure that I get those fibers nicely soaked up with some cement so that they don't move. These need to be really secure, for quite a bit I will be afraid to get it in there, nice and tight. Just stick it underneath and moving around. There we go.

Each layer I am going to do that. Okay. Grab it again. Lay it in the pinch method again, a little bit longer than the previous wing. Squeeze it in nice and tight. Make that loose loop, it's hard to see where is the black, but I am bringing it down not super tight yet. Now I can tighten it up a little bit. Okay. Okay, same thing again. I am going to take this, I am going to clip it off at an angle, so it starts to move down towards that hook eye.

I am going to have a nice tapered bullet shaped head, okay. And because of that fact that I forgot last time, I waited too long, I am going to put this in right away, my head cement, a lot of it. I want to make sure it's really going to have a nice secure connection. I want that opening up and have the fibers pull out from the back when a fish grabs on to it, because that does happen. Not the brown.

As I said before this particular tail is a little bit light. I am going to try to dig in a little bit underneath there so I get some of the darker brown. Doesn't have to be absolutely tan brown, you can have some white pieces in there. But I want it to a nice brown. And those black -- they are imitating most likely kind of a olivy brown they are trying to capture that. Here we go. Pull out those loose ones in the back.

Once again we will put in the hair stacker. If this one doesn't do what I wanted to, I am going to show you how I can do it with my home made hair stacker which is an open stacker and I can control what I am doing little easier to see what's happening. Smack it a couple of times. I like this smack the top down a little bit too just in case they don't want to move. I will just kind of force them down.

What's happening is of course the tips are all hitting the bottom and they are going to flattened out. The goal is to get them so they are all the same, this one just worked out pretty well. Okay. Here they are. Not too bad. I will pull a couple of ones that I don't like out of there. I am also not crazy when I see that there is one that got turned around and we have got a sharp cut off end sticking out that side. So I will pull this out too. Okay.

Now I take that, and it's offy-light. So keep that in mind that if you have a little bit darker brown buck tail, it might actually be a little bit more true to what this pad is supposed to do. But it certainly is going to work just as effectively if doesn't. Pull that down, holding it above just like before. Pinch it, it's got to be held and I don't want to lose that pinch and now I can go it tight.

Now I am going to have a nice big head on this fly, and that's because of the fact that I have got a pretty big layering system going here, but you will see -- it actually adds to that kind of a minnowy effect of this fly, looks like a minnow. Scissors. Not the same ones I have been using, but can cut these off on an angle. It kind of angles it up away from the hook eye. Clean that area out nice and clean so you don't have anything that sticks out at the end there.

Just trim that back so that I have got a nice base throughout my thread. Okay. Now, we are nearly done. Cut cement before I finish wrapping it down. I am going to stick it inside of there, so that I have got a tight inside. All saturated. So I don't have to worry about that going apart even if my head doesn't hold them so well, that symmetry keeps them in there.

I am going to wrap up to the back again, so I can level out, even out that beginning point on the head. So it's a nice clean shape. I am going to wrap over these fibers before I finish that up. You can see that they are going to slide down in here. So I am going to go in different directions in the beginning just to get it to stay. I am not liking what's happening so far. It's going to be a little bit of a chore to get this to be a nice clean head because I have got a lot of slipping going on.

I will build up some down below first. Okay. This does take quite a bit of thread to fill in this thing. And I am always constantly using my fingernails when I do this to arrange things the way I want them. Because in the final stage I am going to control what happens, I am just going to be wrapping like this, smooth tapered down towards that point.
Right now I am a bit being controlled by the thread. Okay, I kind of feel, it kind of loosened up there too on this side but they will go away. Here we go. Okay. I am going to bring it down to the hook eye. See I have got couple of loose one there and this is something that will happen unless you are really luck out in the first shot. And quite often you would get that effect off the slipping hack or the slipping thread. Not to worry. Okay.

Now I am going to - we are finished. A little more outside, some more room to play with. Okay. Move that down, move that out holding tight. Okay. One leg got away there. I am going to put a lot of head cement on that fly. Now I often even put a layer of head cement on, let it dry for a bit and then come back to it. So I can make sure that's it is a nice smooth shiny bullet head on this thing basically.

So a little bit thin, this is meant to be thin. So it soaks into the fibers. You just see by doing this and even slightly -- puckers and different things that we saw in the thread will go away if we put enough of this on. It's like varnishing wood you can make it very smooth if you layered on enough. Let that dry for a second, that would just soak in.

I can cut that away. Okay. I will let it dry for a few more seconds. I will make sure it aligns the way I want it to be aligned. Here it again. Now there is a specific kind of a lack, that can also be here for streamers I have. Lack or clear, it's a head lack and gives you a very, very solid shiny kind of a head which, something else you could tie a lot a stream or something better to pick up.

It takes less of this to do that, that's one of the reasons why, this is more or less designed to go inside of - this runs on a smaller fly. Okay, I will check my hook eye a little bit. Seems like I am fine. Okay. Take a look here, we can see what I have got. I have got the wing nice and even and flat. It should look flat like this from the top. It shouldn't be off layered out but all stacked nice and flat. Look underneath here you can see that the ribs are all nice and even and that completes the Black Nose Dace.

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