Now, that you’ve got your harness on, let's get tied in. Tying a good knot is the most important safety issue in all climbing. So don’t get distracted. Don’t talk to anybody. Don’t start. Don’t do something else and come back to you until you're not right.
Here’s a figure 8 knot, the most common, the best and what I recommend to everybody. I learned how to do it before I can tie my own shoelaces. I still use it today. Take the end of the rope, go to about your other shoulder, its about the right length of the rope, pinch back, hold it over, make a little loop, do one a half twists and go back to the loop like there. It's a nice little figure 8. Take the end of the rope, go through your leg loops first, bend your waist, pull the knot out.
Take the end of the rope and try to follow this rope where ever it goes until it comes off the end. This will make a double figure 8. The closer you can get your knot to your harness the better. This is a double figure 8 right here.
What I do personally is a sport knot variation. I take the excess rope and then follow it through the bottom of the knot. Hold it tight and get yourself a nice compact sport knot. Excess rope, stick it to the waist belt.
Let's see that again. Take the end of the rope stretch it across your body stay out of the shoulder, pinch back, loop that over to another twist, it's a one and half twist altogether, and come back to the loop. There you have a figure 8. Take the end of the rope, go through your leg loops first, then your waist belt, pull it tight and then proceed to follow this end all then way along side this end until it comes out the other end. At this point send her down so that you have enough room to finish and then finishing up, that’s your figure 8.
At this point keep it back through that end, hold it tight and you’ve got yourself a nice compact sport knot. Excess rope, stick it to the waist belt. To untie, take this rope and push it on the knot, so it will loosen the whole knot especially if it's really tight. Then it's really easy to untie.
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