How to Tie a Dry-Light Cahill Fly Video

By: Guest More than a year ago

video muy malo, para que hacer tan complicado algo tan facil,

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By: Guest More than a year ago

Best fly tying videos I have seen.

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How to Tie a Dry-Light Cahill Fly

Now I am going to tie a fly called the Light Cahill. This is an eastern pattern which is specifically tied to imitate cream, light cream color Mayflies. It is not something that has to actually be specific to one kind of Mayfly. It actually is tied to imitate number of flies that will be occurring in smaller streams and even larger rivers where you can find flies that would be lighter in the body and lighter in the wing. The fly actually can be used as an attractive pattern as well because the light color fly and it matches a variety of different light bodied insects. I usually used it to imitate flashes of Pale Evening Duns, Pale Morning Duns and I have even used it for some of the smaller nondescript Mayfly that have been across throughout the time that I have fished the fly. It actually--, it further can be tied in different ways. Sometimes with the more sparse hackle, other times with more of full color. I am going to tie up the more traditional eastern way, which is more of the sparse application of materials. The fly, if is tied more sparsely, tends to give you a more of a clean silver wrap, gives it more of a sense of delicacy which is pretty typical of all the Mayflies that we find in the eastern region. So I have got a size 14 hook in the vice again this is going to be a barbless hook, so you can get away with right way of having a safe life for fishing and catching this waters but also easier disengage that hook from the fish's mouth . As a practice, I always pinch them down. And I have said before, I have never really lost a fish as that as a result of a barbless hook. And this as far as I know. I am going to be using for this tie, a light colored hackle and I take this brown off of here. I am going to be using a cream colored thread. Very similar to the color that we see in the body that I am going to be using--, the dubbing that I use for the body. Okay, so you get a chance to see me right from beginning while I do to get this thing going. I have got to pull that thread out of that notch, brand new thread. Open up the bobbin here. I am lucky that this doesn't fly out of my hand because my hands are quite sweaty but that does happen a lot, it just gets away from you. Now I grab my bobbin threader, okay, which is could just be a piece of metal thin wire bent into a 'V'. But I have this more fancy looking brass handle so I can grab on little quicker. For years, though, I just used a piece of thin wire that I bent in half and it works just fine. In fact, if you have ever seen a threader that are used for sewing, they are pretty similar. And it get away using that pretty well except they are using our very long wires. You can get away with that short necked bobbin. I like those too. Okay, so I push it through and pull it back. Now, I got my thread. Nicely, sync through this, push through that too. To start this out, I am going to lay that thread so I lay it parallel to the hook shank, I am starting in the beginning and getting a nice base of thread going back to the bend of the hook. On this point, I can actually go a little further than I would normally go because I do want to put a good flair on this tail. I am going to let it be sparse tail, which means I don't have to worry so much about it not being supportive and if spreads out more on my fingers right here as opposed to be a tight bunch, it's going to have much better contact with the surface, when I want it sitting in the fast moving stream. Okay, so the first thing I am going to do, before everything else, is I am going to tie in my tail, then I am going to put in wing after that which we are going to made out of wood duck flying feathers. First thing I will do before I even put those fibers in, I am going to put a small ball of dubbing right at that bend of the hooks. So I am going to right away get some wax on the thread. It's okay if you are a little bit further back on this then than you normally would be with the traditional dry-fly, just to put this ball in because it's actually going to be a piece of material that helps display out my hackle fibers. So I am going to select and I have in this situations, these synthetic furs dubbing. I will grab a small amount of that. I am using this cream color for the body which is going to match the cream color of my hackle. You will see I have got this little tiny bit. I want to show you my fingers are kind of dry and get one of sweat again. Roll a ball around like this, a small amount. It's another ball that have small amount of dubbing on that thread. Then I am going to make a small little lump that sits and you can see in this situation, it sits within side of that hook bent it's not actually going to be in front of it, okay. Now as my thread hang there and be careful again when you do this. I am going to get it sit on the front side of that point. I don't want to let that slide back and forth across that tip too much or it could cut that thread, okay. Now, some hackle--, some capes don't have all that dread of spade hackle. This one I am finding has okay ones but they are not the typical flat stuff feathers. So I would rather do as I go closer to the top and what you have to do, if you do this, you will have to actually sacrifice little bit of stiffness. But you want to make sure you get long fibers. The eastern tying method has long tails. And I am going to do it, as true as I can to the tradition for the spiral persuasion needed. So I tie long tail, I shouldn't say long, long but longer than I might put on the similar pattern on different kind of Mayfly. Okay, so I am going to spread those out so I can look at them, I am going to make sure my fingers are dry. Probably you want to do as much of that if you are underneath these lights but sometime you want to make sure you have dry fingers and then I am going to grab in, I am going to take my index finger and my thumb and I see a section that has may be, I don't know may be, hardly even say there may be 12 fibers in it. I grab the tips, okay, and I move it down and then at the end, I can pull it away. And I am probably going to pull it little more in there and I am just going to see how that turned out in terms of my stacking. That came out really well. That's just pretty good. I am going to tie this little bit sparse as I said something,it should be okay. I don't want a big bushy tail. I might even have few too many. So I am going to pull these up, pull off a few from underneath, that just still be okay. Alright, now, I said that a lot of times in previous ties that I have showed you that these fibers will actually swoop up one direction or the other. So I am going to make sure that they swoop up away from the hook. I don't want this to actually swooping them down. Okay, it's more or less a static thing but it also will aid to make sure that fly sits nicely on the water. Checking my length. I want to make sure this thing is at least as long as the hook shank. This one will go a little bit more than an early would because I want a nice long tail. Give this wire almost a wispy feel. Now I am going to lay this and if you can see here, on top of that ball, and I am going to wrap right next to that ball. Pull it back, see it again, there is the ball of the yarn for dubbing, in a way my fiber is in and I see that lose wrap first and one more time, so you can see that lose wrap first. And go around again, okay, here is some kind of weird thing happen there, may be it is from the sweat from my fingers. Some reason, some of my fibers got bent. Let me see if I can straighten those up. Now, I am going to lash it down and I am moving at this point towards that wall of dubbing and does it forces those fibers to spread out across that and you could see what happened here, okay. I got one on the side that doesn't work here because of something that, it was blowing on the sweat. I am going to pull out that one right there, that steamed into a funny shape by my perspiration. Okay, there we go, alright, now to make that even more flared, if I want to, I am okay with this. But I am just going to show you a little trick. I am going to take my thumbnail which is much of a thumbnail here and I can push underneath there, up against that wall and it spreads them even further, okay. Got a nice flare on that tail which is what you want, it's going to support that very well. Now leave that back there, that would be cautious to let that actually stay nice as it sounds. So what I am going to do is I am going to put a little bit of head cement on that area back there this to be safe. While I am doing other procedures so I don't get that losing up and fall apart, I am just going to put some head cement. I also put head cement back there often on these flare tails too because it gets into others fibers. It helps to lock them in place so they will stay flared. And you want that to happen. You don't want them once again like to go back to a Paint-Brush kind of application because that just doesn't hold the fly as well. And they all fly, they all tie us from way back, used to always do it that way. Just put them on a big bunch like a Paint-Brush and they worked okay but they didn't have the same kind of floating capability. They have actually sink in because it's a long stick and the stick breaks the service if you haven't spread out like this, they will sit on the surface, that's the philosophy behind it and it's pretty true. Okay, now I have wood duck flying feather right here. This one is a little bit softer than I normally will go with some of the smaller flies but it's a larger fly. I am tying a size 14 and of course, the bigger feathers, the bigger they are, the more the soft these ends become. It just should be okay and I want to make sure that I take off all of these sides that are short. You can see I have some shorter pieces and I want those. I want them all at the same lengths. I am going to pull that stuff away, again I can save some of these fibers that often will. I will put these over here actually and I can use those for tails on nymphs and legs on nymphs. Okay, now, some tiers will actually use two of these feathers. You get nice thick wings but instead, I want to make this more of a sparse tie so I won't do that. I am going to use now as I have already got sweat but I can wipe my fingers and I am going to roll this up so it becomes all one big bunch. Like this, okay, and I have got it so I have the stem on that feather is going to swoop up away from the hook. I am checking now to see the length. The wing should be about the length of the hook shank from the eye, back to about where it starts to bend. So it's not going to go past the bend but right about at the bend. I could lay this in and I am going to tie this in facing forward. I am actually going to check that one more time. Not a huge deal if I don't get them right though because I can not usually pull them underneath. So I can see if I lift this up, I don't have it quite in the eye. I am doing relatively lose wraps right now, then I can stand them and see what I think. A little long for me so I am going to pull them underneath the fiber--, the thread. Just pull them back. Slides back, I get a lot of looseness there. So when I get it where I want it, then i can tighten it up. I am going to pull those back pretty hard. I am going to wrap now. If I don't like this, and watch, you can hear it, it's almost little snapping sound and that means I am wrapping it close at the base of those fibers. I am going to cut that away because I think this is going to be okay. Cut this on a bit of an angle. So again I can get good taper up in to that section where I am having a big unruly, unattractive bump, okay. I will do a few more wraps in front of those wings now, just a few and I am pulling pretty tight at this point. So I get to stand up. Next, I am going to part them. I am going to take a look at this; you can see they are all in one batch, if I turn my vice. Now traditionally, this fly has the wing somewhat craft forward. So, it's okay if they do that but I like to get them more or less straight up above the hook shank. So I am going to show you how we can do that right now. First thing I want to do, I will turn to connect this and I am going to split this into two even bunches. So, it's okay if they do that but I like to get them more or less straight up above the hook shank. So I am going to show you how we can do that right now. First thing I want to do, I will turn to connect this and I am going to split this into two even bunches, okay, let me add a little more from that side. This wood duck, lemon color wood duck flank is really, really nice looking. It actually is up there in the water because it really has that effective, that model broken segmentation you see on Mayfly wing. Now, I wrapped between the stand up. Now I am going to go in between again I am going to wrap around the base of each of those wings. May be two times is plenty enough. You don't have to go too much. It's going to close them up, but that's okay, we will open up again. Some ties even wax these and they keep them somewhat close but you don't want them to be totally closed up like little sticks, again, it should be actually stand up. Now, I am going to put in, I will turn that in so you can see, okay. I am going to put in now some head cement on to those bases, so they can have a little less flexibility as they stay up or if I want them and also I can maneuver. Let's just get cleaned, I am getting kind of messy. And surely, be careful to clean that. That's too much, careful. Right there, little there on that one. I will take my fingers, dry fingers again, grab one and pull up and pull up. Straight up and that will flatten them out for me. Because now as I do that, I have actually got that head somewhat working with me to flatten them out. So now I take a look at these. It's not flaring the other way. They should be now flaring along the side of the hook. Otherwise as you are flaring out as a wing with on the side of the fly. If I want this to stand up more and also to split, I can easily just pinch those together and they go straight up. Some of the flies will stick to their wings that they cracked apart, others will have them fish together. A newly hatch done usually have wings that are somewhat broken apart. Okay, now we wrap over that. Pump that I have back, they want to fill that in. I want to get this to be at all thick so I am going to go back to the bend yet because if I do that, I am going to end up having too much thickness back there, okay. Apply my wax, once again grab my dubbing, you can see right here, this is the color I want, this cream. Pull out of, not a whole lot in beginnings, a little bit to begin. If I need to have more, I can. And I am going to spread it out like this so I can lay it. Right along the side or underneath that wax thread, I will dry my fingers and I am cautious to do that. I want a very, very thin beginning and a little bit thicker as I move up, so you can see it starts off to be just almost the thickness of the thread, thicker as it goes away. This should be a tightly twisted dubbing on this. It's almost like grabbing a piece of tight yarn. Tiny light bodied flies is also something you would be careful with in terms of dirt. If your fingers are dirty, you really want to make sure you wipe them off because many times I have had it all laid up, just the way I want it and then I go and I rub my fingers around and I realize that I am working dirt back into that dubbing and it turns out to be this very dirty, dingy looking fly. You know what that, there should be a nice bright fly. Okay. Aid invisibility for you but also it's going to aid something the fisher are looking for is a light target. I wrap that up, slowly up towards that area now. I want to make sure I am not getting too thick so I am going to pull that down a little bit, pull and twist, pull and twist. I want to stop just short and I want to make sure you pull and twist again. Just short of those wings. Okay, there we are. So at this time now, if I don't like what my wings are doing, I am going to have to play it a little bit and adjust them some more, that's okay to do that. Put my hand behind the fly so I can take a look and see how things are. I want to have a good clean slow up that I can gauge things with so. Right now, I am tying against a white background which is helpful, with darker fly, I have got a lighter fly. As soon as I put my hand behind my fly to form a shadow, then I can see actually what the shape looks like. I am satisfied so far. I will turn that for you again. Now, I have to select a hackle. And it's going to be a cream hackle just I used it for the tail, I got this light cream hackle. You could also use a light ginger hackle, which is fine. Relatively high or tall, wings on here. So I am going to make sure I use a hackle that's going to get up to at least close to the height of those wings and tying it rather sparse so I don't have to have this big thick neck, so a little bit longer, hackle is going to help with that. Do what I am doing is I am grabbing the hackle, leaving it right on the neck and then laying it on the fly and checking the height, I am going to go a little bit longer. Size 14 is actually, believe it or not, kind of a big fly, at least from when I am normally tying. I tie it mostly in the 16 to 20 or range 18 is my most common size. So most of my necks get pretty worn out in that 18, so that 18 size are pretty much bare around that section. So usually you have plenty of 14's. Selected my hackle once again. Then I take a look at this, I got the webbing and that goes up into the point where you can start seeing through those fibers. That's about where the webbing stops. We are kind of having a little bit of web but not too much. It is a good example right here if you can get it to look at this too, there is a little bit of an almost like a thick part, right at the base of that and that right there is webbing. That's what we were talking about and you don't want too much of that because it actually makes the fiber wiggle back and forth. So when I see that, I want to remove those. I don't like that in there. Okay, cut off my stem, so now the hackle is prepared once again. You can see the curve of that feather. I want that the curve forward and the curve should face forward. I am going to lay this one on the side this time and move it, it is not doing if I don't want it to. I will try that again. I am going to tie it in, somewhat upside down and as I tie it, it should turn the way I want it to. Do it again. Okay, now it's going to start up just right. I am going to wrap that, last that down so it's nice and tight. Okay. Take my hackle pliers. Get along to the tip of the fly. Making sure that I wrap up side to put again and put this in the front. It is going to sit in the front, wait. Make sure I am wrapping it on head, which as opposed to flat. And I got it twisting in the wrong direction because it's twisting on me. I can actually just push that around where I wanted to go. Once it get going, it's pretty easy to maintain. I want to do it, there we go. I will wrap behind, above, I suppose two and a half, three times. As I am coming through, that should be enough for a sparse hackle for like this. I am going to pull my wings back, may be two or three turns in the front should be sufficient. Okay, one more just to get it up and there I did it again. Once again, you will develop your own way of dealing with that but I tend to write to use words that aren't so nice, okay, here we go. Little bit of weaving on the second one through so that I can see that I might be crunching some hackle fibers down. Pulling up in front of the wings, not wrapping between the wings. You want to leave that space between the wings open or else you get that get smashed and pull it down. Okay, I am looking like that. I have got a nice, big piece of hackle that I can save it for something else. It's not at all piece of junk because I can still use that. It's enough layer for something when you are filling in little extra piece. I have got a couple of pieces that I don't like. That kind of jumping around in funny angles, and I will wrap this back and I want to check it out and now I have to see what I can do about those. I have got my tweezers which has this nice little wooden handle on it, which is on there as a way for you to pick that up easy. And it's nice to hold on to. It's also filed, filed my tip down so I can get in tight. If you are perfectionist like me, you can get in there with this tweezer and pull off those little uncooperative hackle fibers, you don't have to do that but if you looking for a nice, attractive fly that works quite well. Okay. Now,I am going to put away. I am going to pull these back one again, not to wrap any of these hackle fibers down and I just want it should be out of my way. They actually do have some devices you can use to hold this back but otherwise found it there, they are more cumbersome in there, helpful. Just a matter of pushing it back with your fingers. I am wrapping down anything that I don't like. I am checking to be sure that I don't have any of that that did get stuck, okay. Pull this down and with finisher, looking here, hook back on here. I should want to take more thread out. Because if I do that I am going to have, that my head is going to have hard time getting that to disengage. Okay, round and round. I did catch one fiber in there which is one of the problems with these tools, as opposed to just using your finger but I can get rid of that. Okay. Now, I am going to check on that just to be sure but that's still not going to cause a problem for getting my perfectionist yourself. Okay. Here I want to grab one of those, just to, this one and there it got tied in, okay, now it's out. Here we go. We will be certain now that I--, everything the way I want it because I am just about done. And then I actually got some of that down the thread, a little on the bottom. I know may be you are doing over kill, but it can't hurt to do that. Just in case you have got a little of a loosing knot. That will help to make sure it's not going to get away. I slide this up the thread, right up underneath, flip it off. I have got my thread and my fingers here, so I do not have to worry about loosing and also effect through the bubble, okay, turn the fly over at different angles. I can kind of just again make sure that hackle fibers don't drive me nuts. There is one again, if you want to do this. I am sure it's not against the rule to do this. If this is certain you will not care but okay, and that should do it. There it is, your Light Cahill.

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Now I am going to tie a fly called the Light Cahill. This is an eastern pattern which is specifically tied to imitate cream, light cream color Mayflies. It is not something that has to actually be specific to one kind of Mayfly. It actually is tied to imitate number of flies that will be occurring in smaller streams and even larger rivers where you can find flies that would be lighter in the body and lighter in the wing. The fly actually can be used as an attractive pattern as well because the light color fly and it matches a variety of different light bodied insects. I usually used it to imitate flashes of Pale Evening Duns, Pale Morning Duns and I have even used it for some of the smaller nondescript Mayfly that have been across throughout the time that I have fished the fly.

It actually--, it further can be tied in different ways. Sometimes with the more sparse hackle, other times with more of full color. I am going to tie up the more traditional eastern way, which is more of the sparse application of materials. The fly, if is tied more sparsely, tends to give you a more of a clean silver wrap, gives it more of a sense of delicacy which is pretty typical of all the Mayflies that we find in the eastern region. So I have got a size 14 hook in the vice again this is going to be a barbless hook, so you can get away with right way of having a safe life for fishing and catching this waters but also easier disengage that hook from the fish's mouth .

As a practice, I always pinch them down. And I have said before, I have never really lost a fish as that as a result of a barbless hook. And this as far as I know. I am going to be using for this tie, a light colored hackle and I take this brown off of here. I am going to be using a cream colored thread. Very similar to the color that we see in the body that I am going to be using--, the dubbing that I use for the body. Okay, so you get a chance to see me right from beginning while I do to get this thing going. I have got to pull that thread out of that notch, brand new thread. Open up the bobbin here.

I am lucky that this doesn't fly out of my hand because my hands are quite sweaty but that does happen a lot, it just gets away from you. Now I grab my bobbin threader, okay, which is could just be a piece of metal thin wire bent into a 'V'. But I have this more fancy looking brass handle so I can grab on little quicker. For years, though, I just used a piece of thin wire that I bent in half and it works just fine. In fact, if you have ever seen a threader that are used for sewing, they are pretty similar. And it get away using that pretty well except they are using our very long wires.

You can get away with that short necked bobbin. I like those too. Okay, so I push it through and pull it back. Now, I got my thread. Nicely, sync through this, push through that too. To start this out, I am going to lay that thread so I lay it parallel to the hook shank, I am starting in the beginning and getting a nice base of thread going back to the bend of the hook. On this point, I can actually go a little further than I would normally go because I do want to put a good flair on this tail. I am going to let it be sparse tail, which means I don't have to worry so much about it not being supportive and if spreads out more on my fingers right here as opposed to be a tight bunch, it's going to have much better contact with the surface, when I want it sitting in the fast moving stream.

Okay, so the first thing I am going to do, before everything else, is I am going to tie in my tail, then I am going to put in wing after that which we are going to made out of wood duck flying feathers. First thing I will do before I even put those fibers in, I am going to put a small ball of dubbing right at that bend of the hooks. So I am going to right away get some wax on the thread. It's okay if you are a little bit further back on this then than you normally would be with the traditional dry-fly, just to put this ball in because it's actually going to be a piece of material that helps display out my hackle fibers. So I am going to select and I have in this situations, these synthetic furs dubbing. I will grab a small amount of that. I am using this cream color for the body which is going to match the cream color of my hackle.

You will see I have got this little tiny bit. I want to show you my fingers are kind of dry and get one of sweat again. Roll a ball around like this, a small amount. It's another ball that have small amount of dubbing on that thread. Then I am going to make a small little lump that sits and you can see in this situation, it sits within side of that hook bent it's not actually going to be in front of it, okay. Now as my thread hang there and be careful again when you do this. I am going to get it sit on the front side of that point. I don't want to let that slide back and forth across that tip too much or it could cut that thread, okay.

Now, some hackle--, some capes don't have all that dread of spade hackle. This one I am finding has okay ones but they are not the typical flat stuff feathers. So I would rather do as I go closer to the top and what you have to do, if you do this, you will have to actually sacrifice little bit of stiffness. But you want to make sure you get long fibers. The eastern tying method has long tails. And I am going to do it, as true as I can to the tradition for the spiral persuasion needed. So I tie long tail, I shouldn't say long, long but longer than I might put on the similar pattern on different kind of Mayfly. Okay, so I am going to spread those out so I can look at them, I am going to make sure my fingers are dry.

Probably you want to do as much of that if you are underneath these lights but sometime you want to make sure you have dry fingers and then I am going to grab in, I am going to take my index finger and my thumb and I see a section that has may be, I don't know may be, hardly even say there may be 12 fibers in it. I grab the tips, okay, and I move it down and then at the end, I can pull it away. And I am probably going to pull it little more in there and I am just going to see how that turned out in terms of my stacking. That came out really well. That's just pretty good. I am going to tie this little bit sparse as I said something,it should be okay. I don't want a big bushy tail.

I might even have few too many. So I am going to pull these up, pull off a few from underneath, that just still be okay. Alright, now, I said that a lot of times in previous ties that I have showed you that these fibers will actually swoop up one direction or the other. So I am going to make sure that they swoop up away from the hook. I don't want this to actually swooping them down. Okay, it's more or less a static thing but it also will aid to make sure that fly sits nicely on the water. Checking my length. I want to make sure this thing is at least as long as the hook shank. This one will go a little bit more than an early would because I want a nice long tail.

Give this wire almost a wispy feel. Now I am going to lay this and if you can see here, on top of that ball, and I am going to wrap right next to that ball. Pull it back, see it again, there is the ball of the yarn for dubbing, in a way my fiber is in and I see that lose wrap first and one more time, so you can see that lose wrap first. And go around again, okay, here is some kind of weird thing happen there, may be it is from the sweat from my fingers. Some reason, some of my fibers got bent. Let me see if I can straighten those up. Now, I am going to lash it down and I am moving at this point towards that wall of dubbing and does it forces those fibers to spread out across that and you could see what happened here, okay.

I got one on the side that doesn't work here because of something that, it was blowing on the sweat. I am going to pull out that one right there, that steamed into a funny shape by my perspiration. Okay, there we go, alright, now to make that even more flared, if I want to, I am okay with this. But I am just going to show you a little trick. I am going to take my thumbnail which is much of a thumbnail here and I can push underneath there, up against that wall and it spreads them even further, okay.

Got a nice flare on that tail which is what you want, it's going to support that very well. Now leave that back there, that would be cautious to let that actually stay nice as it sounds. So what I am going to do is I am going to put a little bit of head cement on that area back there this to be safe. While I am doing other procedures so I don't get that losing up and fall apart, I am just going to put some head cement. I also put head cement back there often on these flare tails too because it gets into others fibers.

It helps to lock them in place so they will stay flared. And you want that to happen. You don't want them once again like to go back to a Paint-Brush kind of application because that just doesn't hold the fly as well. And they all fly, they all tie us from way back, used to always do it that way. Just put them on a big bunch like a Paint-Brush and they worked okay but they didn't have the same kind of floating capability. They have actually sink in because it's a long stick and the stick breaks the service if you haven't spread out like this, they will sit on the surface, that's the philosophy behind it and it's pretty true.

Okay, now I have wood duck flying feather right here. This one is a little bit softer than I normally will go with some of the smaller flies but it's a larger fly. I am tying a size 14 and of course, the bigger feathers, the bigger they are, the more the soft these ends become. It just should be okay and I want to make sure that I take off all of these sides that are short. You can see I have some shorter pieces and I want those. I want them all at the same lengths. I am going to pull that stuff away, again I can save some of these fibers that often will. I will put these over here actually and I can use those for tails on nymphs and legs on nymphs.

Okay, now, some tiers will actually use two of these feathers. You get nice thick wings but instead, I want to make this more of a sparse tie so I won't do that. I am going to use now as I have already got sweat but I can wipe my fingers and I am going to roll this up so it becomes all one big bunch. Like this, okay, and I have got it so I have the stem on that feather is going to swoop up away from the hook. I am checking now to see the length. The wing should be about the length of the hook shank from the eye, back to about where it starts to bend. So it's not going to go past the bend but right about at the bend.

I could lay this in and I am going to tie this in facing forward. I am actually going to check that one more time. Not a huge deal if I don't get them right though because I can not usually pull them underneath. So I can see if I lift this up, I don't have it quite in the eye. I am doing relatively lose wraps right now, then I can stand them and see what I think. A little long for me so I am going to pull them underneath the fiber--, the thread. Just pull them back. Slides back, I get a lot of looseness there. So when I get it where I want it, then i can tighten it up. I am going to pull those back pretty hard. I am going to wrap now. If I don't like this, and watch, you can hear it, it's almost little snapping sound and that means I am wrapping it close at the base of those fibers.

I am going to cut that away because I think this is going to be okay. Cut this on a bit of an angle. So again I can get good taper up in to that section where I am having a big unruly, unattractive bump, okay. I will do a few more wraps in front of those wings now, just a few and I am pulling pretty tight at this point. So I get to stand up. Next, I am going to part them. I am going to take a look at this; you can see they are all in one batch, if I turn my vice. Now traditionally, this fly has the wing somewhat craft forward. So, it's okay if they do that but I like to get them more or less straight up above the hook shank. So I am going to show you how we can do that right now. First thing I want to do, I will turn to connect this and I am going to split this into two even bunches.

So, it's okay if they do that but I like to get them more or less straight up above the hook shank. So I am going to show you how we can do that right now. First thing I want to do, I will turn to connect this and I am going to split this into two even bunches, okay, let me add a little more from that side. This wood duck, lemon color wood duck flank is really, really nice looking. It actually is up there in the water because it really has that effective, that model broken segmentation you see on Mayfly wing. Now, I wrapped between the stand up. Now I am going to go in between again I am going to wrap around the base of each of those wings. May be two times is plenty enough. You don't have to go too much. It's going to close them up, but that's okay, we will open up again. Some ties even wax these and they keep them somewhat close but you don't want them to be totally closed up like little sticks, again, it should be actually stand up.

Now, I am going to put in, I will turn that in so you can see, okay. I am going to put in now some head cement on to those bases, so they can have a little less flexibility as they stay up or if I want them and also I can maneuver. Let's just get cleaned, I am getting kind of messy. And surely, be careful to clean that. That's too much, careful. Right there, little there on that one. I will take my fingers, dry fingers again, grab one and pull up and pull up. Straight up and that will flatten them out for me. Because now as I do that, I have actually got that head somewhat working with me to flatten them out. So now I take a look at these. It's not flaring the other way. They should be now flaring along the side of the hook. Otherwise as you are flaring out as a wing with on the side of the fly.

If I want this to stand up more and also to split, I can easily just pinch those together and they go straight up. Some of the flies will stick to their wings that they cracked apart, others will have them fish together. A newly hatch done usually have wings that are somewhat broken apart. Okay, now we wrap over that. Pump that I have back, they want to fill that in. I want to get this to be at all thick so I am going to go back to the bend yet because if I do that, I am going to end up having too much thickness back there, okay. Apply my wax, once again grab my dubbing, you can see right here, this is the color I want, this cream. Pull out of, not a whole lot in beginnings, a little bit to begin. If I need to have more, I can. And I am going to spread it out like this so I can lay it. Right along the side or underneath that wax thread, I will dry my fingers and I am cautious to do that. I want a very, very thin beginning and a little bit thicker as I move up, so you can see it starts off to be just almost the thickness of the thread, thicker as it goes away. This should be a tightly twisted dubbing on this. It's almost like grabbing a piece of tight yarn. Tiny light bodied flies is also something you would be careful with in terms of dirt. If your fingers are dirty, you really want to make sure you wipe them off because many times I have had it all laid up, just the way I want it and then I go and I rub my fingers around and I realize that I am working dirt back into that dubbing and it turns out to be this very dirty, dingy looking fly. You know what that, there should be a nice bright fly. Okay.

Aid invisibility for you but also it's going to aid something the fisher are looking for is a light target. I wrap that up, slowly up towards that area now. I want to make sure I am not getting too thick so I am going to pull that down a little bit, pull and twist, pull and twist. I want to stop just short and I want to make sure you pull and twist again. Just short of those wings. Okay, there we are. So at this time now, if I don't like what my wings are doing, I am going to have to play it a little bit and adjust them some more, that's okay to do that. Put my hand behind the fly so I can take a look and see how things are. I want to have a good clean slow up that I can gauge things with so. Right now, I am tying against a white background which is helpful, with darker fly, I have got a lighter fly. As soon as I put my hand behind my fly to form a shadow, then I can see actually what the shape looks like. I am satisfied so far. I will turn that for you again. Now, I have to select a hackle. And it's going to be a cream hackle just I used it for the tail, I got this light cream hackle. You could also use a light ginger hackle, which is fine. Relatively high or tall, wings on here. So I am going to make sure I use a hackle that's going to get up to at least close to the height of those wings and tying it rather sparse so I don't have to have this big thick neck, so a little bit longer, hackle is going to help with that. Do what I am doing is I am grabbing the hackle, leaving it right on the neck and then laying it on the fly and checking the height, I am going to go a little bit longer. Size 14 is actually, believe it or not, kind of a big fly, at least from when I am normally tying. I tie it mostly in the 16 to 20 or range 18 is my most common size.

So most of my necks get pretty worn out in that 18, so that 18 size are pretty much bare around that section. So usually you have plenty of 14's. Selected my hackle once again. Then I take a look at this, I got the webbing and that goes up into the point where you can start seeing through those fibers. That's about where the webbing stops. We are kind of having a little bit of web but not too much. It is a good example right here if you can get it to look at this too, there is a little bit of an almost like a thick part, right at the base of that and that right there is webbing. That's what we were talking about and you don't want too much of that because it actually makes the fiber wiggle back and forth. So when I see that, I want to remove those. I don't like that in there. Okay, cut off my stem, so now the hackle is prepared once again. You can see the curve of that feather. I want that the curve forward and the curve should face forward. I am going to lay this one on the side this time and move it, it is not doing if I don't want it to. I will try that again. I am going to tie it in, somewhat upside down and as I tie it, it should turn the way I want it to. Do it again.

Okay, now it's going to start up just right. I am going to wrap that, last that down so it's nice and tight. Okay. Take my hackle pliers. Get along to the tip of the fly. Making sure that I wrap up side to put again and put this in the front. It is going to sit in the front, wait. Make sure I am wrapping it on head, which as opposed to flat. And I got it twisting in the wrong direction because it's twisting on me. I can actually just push that around where I wanted to go. Once it get going, it's pretty easy to maintain. I want to do it, there we go. I will wrap behind, above, I suppose two and a half, three times. As I am coming through, that should be enough for a sparse hackle for like this. I am going to pull my wings back, may be two or three turns in the front should be sufficient. Okay, one more just to get it up and there I did it again. Once again, you will develop your own way of dealing with that but I tend to write to use words that aren't so nice, okay, here we go. Little bit of weaving on the second one through so that I can see that I might be crunching some hackle fibers down. Pulling up in front of the wings, not wrapping between the wings. You want to leave that space between the wings open or else you get that get smashed and pull it down. Okay, I am looking like that. I have got a nice, big piece of hackle that I can save it for something else. It's not at all piece of junk because I can still use that. It's enough layer for something when you are filling in little extra piece.

I have got a couple of pieces that I don't like. That kind of jumping around in funny angles, and I will wrap this back and I want to check it out and now I have to see what I can do about those. I have got my tweezers which has this nice little wooden handle on it, which is on there as a way for you to pick that up easy. And it's nice to hold on to. It's also filed, filed my tip down so I can get in tight. If you are perfectionist like me, you can get in there with this tweezer and pull off those little uncooperative hackle fibers, you don't have to do that but if you looking for a nice, attractive fly that works quite well. Okay.

Now,I am going to put away. I am going to pull these back one again, not to wrap any of these hackle fibers down and I just want it should be out of my way. They actually do have some devices you can use to hold this back but otherwise found it there, they are more cumbersome in there, helpful. Just a matter of pushing it back with your fingers. I am wrapping down anything that I don't like. I am checking to be sure that I don't have any of that that did get stuck, okay. Pull this down and with finisher, looking here, hook back on here. I should want to take more thread out. Because if I do that I am going to have, that my head is going to have hard time getting that to disengage. Okay, round and round. I did catch one fiber in there which is one of the problems with these tools, as opposed to just using your finger but I can get rid of that. Okay.

Now, I am going to check on that just to be sure but that's still not going to cause a problem for getting my perfectionist yourself. Okay. Here I want to grab one of those, just to, this one and there it got tied in, okay, now it's out. Here we go. We will be certain now that I--, everything the way I want it because I am just about done. And then I actually got some of that down the thread, a little on the bottom. I know may be you are doing over kill, but it can't hurt to do that. Just in case you have got a little of a loosing knot. That will help to make sure it's not going to get away. I slide this up the thread, right up underneath, flip it off. I have got my thread and my fingers here, so I do not have to worry about loosing and also effect through the bubble, okay, turn the fly over at different angles. I can kind of just again make sure that hackle fibers don't drive me nuts. There is one again, if you want to do this. I am sure it's not against the rule to do this. If this is certain you will not care but okay, and that should do it. There it is, your Light Cahill.

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