Chris: Okay. Now we’re at the anchors. Here we have chain anchors. They're connected to two boulder bolts and if you going to top rope her out or try it again, take your quick draws, put them into the bottom links. Actually, it's better to face away from the direction of each other. Clip into them. Now, you have two draws with opposing gaits. It's a good setup for try it again or top roping or anything you need to do.
Now, if you're going to cling her out, take the quick draws, put them up to the middle chain rings which will leave room and thread the rope to the bottom links. Take another quick draw if you have it, clip on to your donut and now grab your donut around here, another your draw here, pull up and connect them together like this.
Now, take this draw and clip it on to here. Now, you have two points of contact and you're ready to start threading the rope. Do this, yell to your belayer that you're straight in, you need to slack. Always be sure to use their name. You don’t want to confuse any other belayers at the cliff and take their climber off belay. So, “I’m straight in Billy give me some slack.” Okay.
Now, pull up about five feet of slack here. I'll tie a claw pitch or any knot will do. We’ll clip it into here. Let's us say you don’t drop the rope when you're untying and threading it through the anchors. Now, you're ready to untie. Depending on how much you’ve fallen. It's going to be a difficult task.
Unthread it, untie the knot, and then thread it to the anchors to your bottom links. Pull it all the way through and then re-tie in. Use your figure eight, tie to your waist belt in your leg loops. Always make sure you’ve got at least a couple of inches here.
Okay, try not tie back into the harness. You can drop this excess slack by untying this knot. I’m dropping the slack. I’m not going to drop the rope anymore. So we don’t need that knot there anymore. Next, you want to yell to your belayer now that we’re going to back on them. Make sure you say their names. “Back on you, Billy.”
Billy: I got your grip.
Chris: Now, I’ve heard a positive response from my belayer. I feel the tension of the rope. Before you clip, double check the whole set-up. Make sure you're knots are tied correctly, that’s good. Make sure you're through your leg loops and your waist harness.
Next, make sure the ropes going through both anchors. You always want to be clip in from your harness to the anchors or some way another. It's looking good.
Okay. Now, I can start taking quick draws off the anchors and start clinging her out. Personally, I always do a triple check just to make sure. A triple knot, it's good. Looks good. Okay. We’re going to take the draws off. Now, I’m safely threaded through the anchors. Be sure to practice this process several times on the ground along with your belayer going over the verbal communication before you ever try the 100 feet off the deck.
There are a variety of different types of anchors. We’ve gone over chain link anchors, but in this case where the chain link with the six carabiner attached to it. All you have to do is clip in and lower down. Now, you never want to take these fixed carabiners with you. Just leave them there.
Now, my buddy, he’s on the top rope this afternoon. So, what I’m going to do is take my own quick draw, clip it in and have him top rope off of my quick draws rather than the fixed carabiners, so it doesn’t get any unnecessary wear and tear. A little bit of slack. “Okay, take that Billy. Okay, lower it down.”
The last most common type of anchor is the cold shot or in this case the open shot. Take your rope, hook up on top and good to go. “Take Billy.” Now, make sure you don’t climb above the anchor or your rope will fall off, lower.
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