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Test Equipment
The test I find most important for a reef aquarium or ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, DKH, calcium and phosphates. Just follow the directions inside the box.
Heaters are essential to any tropical fish tank. A friend of mine purchased the 300-watt heater which malfunction their brightest fish. Now, he uses three 100-watt heaters as a safety precaution.
If you use metal haloids and/or the room that houses the tank is warm, you might not need a heater at all. The metal haloids add heat to the water. You might want to start of with the water two per gallon and add another heater if necessary.
Water
In order to get the highest quality water for your tank, you should use an RO/DI unit. An RO/DI unit filters out impurities in the tap water to give you pure water. Whatever you do, don’t use tap water in your tank because you will be fighting a loosing battle. Tap water introduces chemicals into the tank that you might have to spend a great deal of time and effort to remove. Also, get a high quality salt water mix.
Salinity
A high diameter is a must to notice salinity. The higher the number, the saltier the water is. I like to keep my reef tanks at 1.02 to 1.025. Corals like water are little saltier closer to 1.025 and fish like it a little lower closer to 1.022. For the fish on the tanks, I like to keep about 1.018 and the fish on the tanks, this will keep the disease level down. On setting up a larger system, it is the right thing to set up a quarantined tank. Just buy a 20 gallons starter kit many stores sell with a light, hood, heater, and filter that fits on the back. If you’re setting up a smaller system, try to get your fish from a source that is quarantined the fish for at least two weeks. It’s also handy to have some bags, scrappers, nets, and buckets handy. The buckets from this work great for tank maintenance so don’t throw them away.
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