How to make a Biot-winged Caddis Fly Video

By: Guest More than a year ago

LOVE that fly. Will definitely be tying some of those... Your videos are outstanding by the way - keep up the great work.

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How to make a Biot-winged Caddis Fly - Fly Fishing

I am going to be tying now a Biot Wing Caddis. This pattern was developed by a person named Rene Harrop, he is pretty well fly fisherman and. I picked this up, out of a book and I have done some variations on it, to kind of fit my needs. But it's pretty close to what he was for showing in this pattern, it's actually really an effective pattern for imitating caddis flies in slower, medium current which is usually, pretty difficult to do because they are hard to imitate. If you ever got into a caddis hatch and that I mean, in a sense that it's hard to actually, to get the fish to be turned to an imitation. The flies jump around a lot, unlike mayflies they aren't usually emerging right then, as the fisher are feeding on it, they are actually coming out of bushes, it's difficult. I found this fly that it would be very effective when everything else fails. If something else, is not working so well, because it's just not quite realistic enough or the fish are somehow resisting any of the traditional patterns, I put one of these on. They have a biot wing, which means that it comes from the leading edge, I'll show what that is right away. Leading edge from a primary feather from birds such as geese and also turkeys. I am using a turkey biot, which are what most people are using it today for the biot application, to see in patterns. They are pretty long and they are also -- you can hear they are very, very stiff feathers, very, very durable which is nice about this as well. There are traditional patterns that have either a softer wing material you used or wings that are easy to pull apart and that also, is a problem, when you are getting to heavy caddis action, they fall apart, this one won't do that. This is taking into affect, also material called the CDC feather which comes from the area around the gland that the oil gland on a duck. Once they are used to actually clean their feathers and distribute oil, to keep their feathers from getting wet. So these feathers, that come off this area around that gland are extremely waterproof in other words -- they have a little coating of oil on them, they are very buoyant. You really don't require any kind of flotation, floater I should say in the areas around that CDC. So I am going to use that as well. I am going to start up by tying this with traditional caddis body which means it will be a tail on this. There will not be a tail excuse me, because caddis flies don't have a tale. I'll leave that out, but I am going to tie the wing a little long to aide in flotation. So I am using for this fly, kind of almost like a soft, close to a mustard kind of a green thread, because I am going to tie this with a greenish olive body. Start this up at the front grabbing back over the thread again, the caddis fly does not have a tale. So I can wrap this well, into the bend and if you have ever look at caddis fly body, they actually, do have a kind of turn down tale on their body. I shouldn't say, tale but their abdomen kind of hooks down. So you can actually get that down pretty good, I usually love that, wrapped down the hook bend. Okay, I begin by dubbing. The fly really isn't that difficult to tie, just there are a couple of procedures that make it a little bit laborious, you can see that I mean it's not hard, but it just take some time at one point, but it is worth it, because you get into some situations where this fish just will not take traditional caddis patterns. I often will switch to this and right away the fish will naile it. A silhouette, is very important with the caddis this is extreme realistic. Silhouette and also rides very realistically in the water. It sits right, in the surface film, I clip the hackle of the bottom of the fly. So I can get it to sit flush with the surface. It can also be scattered across the surface because that clip tackle. It's got a lot of very good attributes and make it a good fly to have in your box. I am tying a size 14, which is a typical size for larger rivers and sometimes you will find these sizes in some small streams. But most of the time in the smaller waters like I fish, I'll tie that is used in a size 16 or a size 18, because the fact, that usually I run into a smaller caddis fly. It could be tied in a variety of colors, but it's helping me tie this one a little bit of lighter color, something like a tan caddis. Okay the body is wrapped on, you can see it tapers back and not important to make this a really neat body because in the caddis fly. Is almost like a warm like body that kind of wraps back underneath it's wings. Okay the first thing, I am going to do now, is I am going put in an under wing. I am must start out with this piece of CDC to begin with. I'll show you what that looks like, okay. It looks almost like, like a splayed out hackle or something. But you can see if I turn in different directions. A little shiny bits of that, kind of come through this one you can see we are quite doing it as well, like as a leg or two. But this a natural CDC feather usually you can buy them dyed, just suit your needs you could have dyed in olive, tan they come in blue, blue in olive version too kind of bluish gray, this one is from a natural mallard, it's just a natural grayish brown. Works very well, because a little bit of modeling to this which is kind of nice. I'll strip away a little bit and these never really lay in nicely. So if it doesn't look beautiful lay in cross, don't feel bad about that. I put this underneath my biot wing, so that I can be sure that it's going to float. I'll let it hang this a little bit pass the hook bend, a little bit. Flash it down, pretty good first of all I'll show you again, and pinching pretty tight or loose loop to begin with then, I tighten it up. It's going to sit there kind of ugly and then we are getting you can only see it is being a very nice looking, profile but that's going to get changed quickly, when I am going lay on my wings on top. It's just there as an under wing to make sure, we have some flotation. Okay next thing, I am going to tie in some legs. This again is not 100% necessary, but it's a nice thing to have, just to get a little more added realism to the fly, give some more of a modeling effect I am going to use wood duck, flying feathers for this. Actually I am going to pick one that that doesn't have such a soft edge, to it there we go this looks a little bit more stiff. I am just going to tear off, a few from each side here, or from this side and put them on each side of and fly. Again, I am just going to lay those in about, the same length on CDC on either side. I laid one at the back, I lash it down and try to kind of pull up here. I want them to just stay on the sides, I am not going to be having those sticking out pass my wing. Caddis flies hold their wings on the water in a variety of positions. They are moving around, they flutter about, when they are sitting at rest and it's often in the case, in slow water. They form almost like a tent shape of there wings, there's even a fly called a tent wing caddis, because it a lot looks like a small pup tent, like the old fashion pup tents there they are hanging off the side okay. It just adds a little bit more, of a sense of bugginess to the fly. I will turn, that so you can see where they sit of the side like that. Alright it would be not a bad imitation for a caddis, but throwing this wing on, really pulls it together. Okay and I have told you there have been times, when I have been fishing traditional patterns and I may have some success. But switch to one of these and it's almost instantaneous sometimes, how they react to this, they just -- do not resist it, when it's in the right situation. Now what I have of these two CDC feathers and it gives me biot. They are semitransparent and they very much imitate or very close to imitate what we see in a caddis wing, as it goes across in front of a light source. Okay, they are semitransparent. They sparkle little bit in terms, of having some kinds of it sets translucency and they are also set very much, like a flappy flashy wing when they are going cross the stream. They are very durable too, so we are not going to be pulled apart. One of the problems with traditional winging, is that you often find out that the fish after few fish they get torn apart. These will not tear up. Now a lot of people say, that's the best thing that can happen and it is often true. They get torn up, they often add to the appearance of being scruffy moving fly. This one is meant to be a caddis fly at rest. Now what I have done, is I have taken these two biots and they have a concave side to them, take a look at them, you can kind of see there's a little channel. I pull them apart one more time and kind of a concave appearance to that okay. And I put them both, concave sides in, in this situation. Now I didn't get these from a matched pair, I have took them from the same feather, you can do that and then, you can get more uniform. It doesn't matter because the caddis flies wings are modeled. They have a lot of striations down the wing, it doesn't make much difference, if you make them perfectly matched and you'll see why, in a second. Okay, take my scissors and I am going to actually, cut them back now at an angle to simulate to see what type of a caddis wing. So it should be about like that, okay. Now I take them and I open them, okay if I can get them open up and I lay them in now, on top of that wing. I am going to let them, go little bit pass now. Now, take the other hand, and they coming out I pinch them in tight, okay, if you have ever tied in a traditional Quill wing, it's not that far from that in terms, of how I hold them in place. I'll loose, wrap around once actually, I just thought about something I am going to do something little different here. There are two ways that I tie this. I am going to show you the other version, I just remembered that I am going to wrap in a hackle first, and that's something that I am going to do just to show you, a super realistic version. I am going to tie something in right, now. Okay I have got a couple of them pulled out. You can do this with hackle, in front of the wing or underneath the wing and according to me, because I am tying it larger, this is size 14. It would be advantageous if it somewhat hide that hackle, so it makes a little bit less, fluffy looking. I want to make it, so it's more of a clean. So what caddis flies, don't have an awful lot of protruding wing -- legs and what not, they actually, kind of keep their legs tucked up underneath their bodies and usually they are tied with -- in terms of the traditional pattern. It's a pretty rough hackle, fluffy, because of the fact that they are used often, in broken water. I said, before this is used not exclusively, but best suited for a slower current. So we don't want to have that fluffy wing up here. So I am going to tie in an Adam style hackle, which means I am going to have a brown and aggressive. It can be anyway you wanted. You can tie it in, to suit your needs. But again, I like some modeling, some flex in there, so I am going mix the hackles. I tie them in, both concave facing forward, I apologize for forgetting the step, but I was going to tie it the other way and I realize, well this is a more interesting version, I am going to do this. Okay, I am going to put some dubbing on first underneath, because I want to dub up through and I lost my dubbing ball here, okay, I'll just get some more for me. In the box here, and kind of mixing a couple of colors here, and more of a rusty olive and just a regular olive, sparse dubbing up underneath here, over the hackle, the thread wraps, sparse I don't want to get too heavy, under here. Okay we are all set. Caddis flies are very enticing and they are nice meal for the trout and they do entice pretty aggressive strikes and one thing, you can keep in mind is that when you do get a fly, that fish take this, it will be quite committed, if you sip these flies in. Okay here we go. I am going to send my polymer, which mean I am going to leave some space in between, okay and that's really all I need. I don't need a lot there, there is my brown. I am leaving quite a bit of space in between actually, I'll make sure I am not going to loose that, because I think it's going to slip, there we go. Space in between is like I throw my grizzly in between those wraps. I don't want to crowd to my head, I am getting a little close to doing that, so I am going to be careful. I am going to do something naturally, you are going to kind of say, why you are doing that, you kind of defeated purps of the hackle, where you are going to see it's important, I am going to clip a little bit of hackle away from this. Okay there we go. Now cut that stem out, try to speed up a little bit, because I took some more time with that. I added hackle feature, I am going to show you now. Now I am going turn this, like so you can see that I have got here, I am going to actually, go in now and I am going to clip out a V, from the center, of those well, I am pretty much kind of get that point of my scissors and I am going to cut that out of here. So I have a place for that wing to sit in and now we take those CDC feathers. Now here is -- the CDC, I said that before the biot. You can color these wings and I am going to show you just so that, you can see that I am talking really quickly by using a permanent marker. I am just going to take this as a brown marker, and you can do this in a different colors. It could be brown, you could go ahead and use more of a tan and I am going to put some brown on these wings on either side, I won't bother with the inside, okay, just to kind of hit them a little bit, you can even model them, by kind of just pushing your pen against them, and it gives it a nice appearance against the light of being somewhat tanish, somewhat more of a natural soft brown color. Not necessary to do that, where you could say well, I'll leave them just natural. What I like to do is just match the imitation, the original fly. If I know what I am going to be tying and otherwise, I know I am tying a brown caddis or olive wing caddis or darker wing caddis. I can actually at home to tell you those, wings to meet my needs. Okay once again, I am going to tie these wings in just like I talked about, in the beginning I lay them on like this, I pinch them, I do a loose wrap and then pull it back. Now I got that to slide down, I have to do a little bit tighter original cinch down, there we go. I am going to pull them back and you could see, what they do, before I clip that off, they lay across, they are very nice. Now they are little bit more open, the caddis tents to hold the wings more close. But having it open gives more of a sense of movement with the wing. Okay, so we can actually do that. Now there are ways you can actually, just use these two tips from your biots as antenna. But they are so big, because I use, larger wings, I am not going to do that I am going to show you, how to just tie in some extra ones. And I pull those back, I want to make sure, I leave a little bit there, so I have something to lash down with, I don't want to cut it right off, because I am going to have a hard time, sinking that in, I got some hackle fibers, that are getting the way, they are going to get clipped out, any of them that pull some others for a -- tie them into my head and I don't want that to happen, there you go. I'll lash it down, it it's pretty slippery this biot. So I am going to have some trouble, right from the start, just to get that covered now, I got. Okay, here we go. Now, next step is the antenna optional absolutely, optional but I like putting them in for added realism. So now, I am just going to take some antenna, which are going to be tied with other biots, not those large tricky biots. Here, I have this kind of a tan colored, but it's a hen chicken wing feather, okay, anything can work. But I like the color, on these so, I am going to take these fine biots from leaning edge of this wing feather okay. You could use gray, mallard, if you wanted too. You could use even, if you had some kind a smaller tricky feather. A grouse feather, will work as well. But you want to use the smaller thin biots, from a smaller feather, works very well too, if u have any small wings from various small birds partridges. If you had yourself a starling skin. Some people actually, have those for tying about, a couple of those on small primary feathers from Australian wing works pretty well too, okay. And you can actually find different colors to suit your need. If you are tying a gray caddis or a black caddis, you don't want to use a darker feather. Okay I am going to match these up so that they are of the same length. And there is two ways of doing it. I am going to do it, the easy way. You can actually tie them in, on either side of that or you can tie them in together, I am going to tie them in together. Okay I am going roll them around so I can get, if they splay out, I am doing it again, there you go. Again, if I can they are small, but I want to get them so they are actually going to go out, concave sides facing out. Tie -- I hold them in like this just above the head this is tricky, because the hackle and I pulled out. Now I can lift them up, okay and I am going to wrap behind, one of them is little short than the other one, I can just lift it back through to get it how I want it to be. I want to make sure, they are of the same length. So I am going to carefully move that, a little further up, there we go. Okay, now I am going to hold them up and I have got a little problem here, because I am starting to slip down into my eye and I don't want to take at least, one turn underneath so, they don't lay down in my way. So I can actually use that eye affect at least, if I get it all crowded up, I can't get in there. Now, I am going to do a half hitch, because I want to tie in behind those antenna. I don't want to actually, tie in front of them, because I have very little room and also it's the bulk of the heads back there. So I am going to use my fingers and this is the way that I do this, on a larger flies that requires some of that application. I take my two fingers, and I go in on the thread like this and I wrap the thread around, my fingers. Now I can get a big loop, that I can pull in and it's a little bit tricky. But now I got to work my fingers out, which is tough with this, small head, there we go and I slowly pull that little close behind, those antenna okay, got it. I should probably do one more, but because of the fact that I am getting crowded and it's just a matter of -- possibly screwing up with this, at this point, because I am getting the point I am getting so close to the end. I don't want to do that because it could actually, slip off. You want to try to get two in there and I have only got one, that's okay you can let it finish, if you have more room. I like to have those in tanish, sitting right there, on that hook cock okay. So one should be enough if you do a good head on it, but I would like to get two in there, if I can. I am doing one for the purpose of showing, what I am doing to maintain a clean head okay. Quite a bit of cement on there, because I want to make sure, that I am not going to have that loosened up especially, with that one half hitch. Now, almost done okay, one more thing I have to do. I am going to clip off, that thread holding on to bob and end my thread at the same time, so I don't loose it, take that out. Now, I am going to flip this fly and I am going to clip the bottom off, flat okay. So I am going to take this, I am going to lay it in. so I am cutting off, flush with the hook I am going to clip that off, from this side, best thing to do is it take it out of the vice. So I am not -- you are not going to loose what I am doing here. I can take a look at what, I have got okay, I clip them off, of there and I want to make sure, I clip them off, equally on the other sides so they are both the same and I will keep it level with my hook, I'll cut it straight across there. I am going to come in, from this side and cut across, there okay. Very short little stubby hackles, I wish I could nail a couple of them, I wish I had a nail, but it should be okay. I'll just take it back in the vice. You can see what I have got, you can see what happen here, I got a few of them cut off, a little shorter then I wanted but it's okay, alright and there it is very affective, very clean silhouette, will works in semi-broken water or it works even better or I should say, better suited for slower water, because the effect that it has, so many realistic properties to it. The Biot Wing Caddis.

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I am going to be tying now a Biot Wing Caddis. This pattern was developed by a person named Rene Harrop, he is pretty well fly fisherman and. I picked this up, out of a book and I have done some variations on it, to kind of fit my needs. But it's pretty close to what he was for showing in this pattern, it's actually really an effective pattern for imitating caddis flies in slower, medium current which is usually, pretty difficult to do because they are hard to imitate. If you ever got into a caddis hatch and that I mean, in a sense that it's hard to actually, to get the fish to be turned to an imitation.

The flies jump around a lot, unlike mayflies they aren't usually emerging right then, as the fisher are feeding on it, they are actually coming out of bushes, it's difficult. I found this fly that it would be very effective when everything else fails. If something else, is not working so well, because it's just not quite realistic enough or the fish are somehow resisting any of the traditional patterns, I put one of these on.

They have a biot wing, which means that it comes from the leading edge, I'll show what that is right away. Leading edge from a primary feather from birds such as geese and also turkeys. I am using a turkey biot, which are what most people are using it today for the biot application, to see in patterns. They are pretty long and they are also -- you can hear they are very, very stiff feathers, very, very durable which is nice about this as well.

There are traditional patterns that have either a softer wing material you used or wings that are easy to pull apart and that also, is a problem, when you are getting to heavy caddis action, they fall apart, this one won't do that. This is taking into affect, also material called the CDC feather which comes from the area around the gland that the oil gland on a duck. Once they are used to actually clean their feathers and distribute oil, to keep their feathers from getting wet.

So these feathers, that come off this area around that gland are extremely waterproof in other words -- they have a little coating of oil on them, they are very buoyant. You really don't require any kind of flotation, floater I should say in the areas around that CDC. So I am going to use that as well.

I am going to start up by tying this with traditional caddis body which means it will be a tail on this. There will not be a tail excuse me, because caddis flies don't have a tale. I'll leave that out, but I am going to tie the wing a little long to aide in flotation. So I am using for this fly, kind of almost like a soft, close to a mustard kind of a green thread, because I am going to tie this with a greenish olive body. Start this up at the front grabbing back over the thread again, the caddis fly does not have a tale. So I can wrap this well, into the bend and if you have ever look at caddis fly body, they actually, do have a kind of turn down tale on their body. I shouldn't say, tale but their abdomen kind of hooks down.

So you can actually get that down pretty good, I usually love that, wrapped down the hook bend. Okay, I begin by dubbing. The fly really isn't that difficult to tie, just there are a couple of procedures that make it a little bit laborious, you can see that I mean it's not hard, but it just take some time at one point, but it is worth it, because you get into some situations where this fish just will not take traditional caddis patterns. I often will switch to this and right away the fish will naile it.

A silhouette, is very important with the caddis this is extreme realistic. Silhouette and also rides very realistically in the water. It sits right, in the surface film, I clip the hackle of the bottom of the fly. So I can get it to sit flush with the surface. It can also be scattered across the surface because that clip tackle. It's got a lot of very good attributes and make it a good fly to have in your box. I am tying a size 14, which is a typical size for larger rivers and sometimes you will find these sizes in some small streams. But most of the time in the smaller waters like I fish, I'll tie that is used in a size 16 or a size 18, because the fact, that usually I run into a smaller caddis fly. It could be tied in a variety of colors, but it's helping me tie this one a little bit of lighter color, something like a tan caddis.

Okay the body is wrapped on, you can see it tapers back and not important to make this a really neat body because in the caddis fly. Is almost like a warm like body that kind of wraps back underneath it's wings. Okay the first thing, I am going to do now, is I am going put in an under wing. I am must start out with this piece of CDC to begin with. I'll show you what that looks like, okay. It looks almost like, like a splayed out hackle or something. But you can see if I turn in different directions. A little shiny bits of that, kind of come through this one you can see we are quite doing it as well, like as a leg or two. But this a natural CDC feather usually you can buy them dyed, just suit your needs you could have dyed in olive, tan they come in blue, blue in olive version too kind of bluish gray, this one is from a natural mallard, it's just a natural grayish brown. Works very well, because a little bit of modeling to this which is kind of nice. I'll strip away a little bit and these never really lay in nicely.

So if it doesn't look beautiful lay in cross, don't feel bad about that. I put this underneath my biot wing, so that I can be sure that it's going to float. I'll let it hang this a little bit pass the hook bend, a little bit. Flash it down, pretty good first of all I'll show you again, and pinching pretty tight or loose loop to begin with then, I tighten it up. It's going to sit there kind of ugly and then we are getting you can only see it is being a very nice looking, profile but that's going to get changed quickly, when I am going lay on my wings on top. It's just there as an under wing to make sure, we have some flotation.

Okay next thing, I am going to tie in some legs. This again is not 100% necessary, but it's a nice thing to have, just to get a little more added realism to the fly, give some more of a modeling effect I am going to use wood duck, flying feathers for this. Actually I am going to pick one that that doesn't have such a soft edge, to it there we go this looks a little bit more stiff. I am just going to tear off, a few from each side here, or from this side and put them on each side of and fly. Again, I am just going to lay those in about, the same length on CDC on either side. I laid one at the back, I lash it down and try to kind of pull up here. I want them to just stay on the sides, I am not going to be having those sticking out pass my wing.

Caddis flies hold their wings on the water in a variety of positions. They are moving around, they flutter about, when they are sitting at rest and it's often in the case, in slow water. They form almost like a tent shape of there wings, there's even a fly called a tent wing caddis, because it a lot looks like a small pup tent, like the old fashion pup tents there they are hanging off the side okay. It just adds a little bit more, of a sense of bugginess to the fly. I will turn, that so you can see where they sit of the side like that.

Alright it would be not a bad imitation for a caddis, but throwing this wing on, really pulls it together. Okay and I have told you there have been times, when I have been fishing traditional patterns and I may have some success. But switch to one of these and it's almost instantaneous sometimes, how they react to this, they just -- do not resist it, when it's in the right situation.

Now what I have of these two CDC feathers and it gives me biot. They are semitransparent and they very much imitate or very close to imitate what we see in a caddis wing, as it goes across in front of a light source. Okay, they are semitransparent. They sparkle little bit in terms, of having some kinds of it sets translucency and they are also set very much, like a flappy flashy wing when they are going cross the stream. They are very durable too, so we are not going to be pulled apart.

One of the problems with traditional winging, is that you often find out that the fish after few fish they get torn apart. These will not tear up. Now a lot of people say, that's the best thing that can happen and it is often true. They get torn up, they often add to the appearance of being scruffy moving fly. This one is meant to be a caddis fly at rest.

Now what I have done, is I have taken these two biots and they have a concave side to them, take a look at them, you can kind of see there's a little channel. I pull them apart one more time and kind of a concave appearance to that okay. And I put them both, concave sides in, in this situation. Now I didn't get these from a matched pair, I have took them from the same feather, you can do that and then, you can get more uniform. It doesn't matter because the caddis flies wings are modeled. They have a lot of striations down the wing, it doesn't make much difference, if you make them perfectly matched and you'll see why, in a second.

Okay, take my scissors and I am going to actually, cut them back now at an angle to simulate to see what type of a caddis wing. So it should be about like that, okay. Now I take them and I open them, okay if I can get them open up and I lay them in now, on top of that wing. I am going to let them, go little bit pass now. Now, take the other hand, and they coming out I pinch them in tight, okay, if you have ever tied in a traditional Quill wing, it's not that far from that in terms, of how I hold them in place. I'll loose, wrap around once actually, I just thought about something I am going to do something little different here.

There are two ways that I tie this. I am going to show you the other version, I just remembered that I am going to wrap in a hackle first, and that's something that I am going to do just to show you, a super realistic version. I am going to tie something in right, now. Okay I have got a couple of them pulled out. You can do this with hackle, in front of the wing or underneath the wing and according to me, because I am tying it larger, this is size 14. It would be advantageous if it somewhat hide that hackle, so it makes a little bit less, fluffy looking. I want to make it, so it's more of a clean.

So what caddis flies, don't have an awful lot of protruding wing -- legs and what not, they actually, kind of keep their legs tucked up underneath their bodies and usually they are tied with -- in terms of the traditional pattern. It's a pretty rough hackle, fluffy, because of the fact that they are used often, in broken water. I said, before this is used not exclusively, but best suited for a slower current. So we don't want to have that fluffy wing up here. So I am going to tie in an Adam style hackle, which means I am going to have a brown and aggressive. It can be anyway you wanted. You can tie it in, to suit your needs.

But again, I like some modeling, some flex in there, so I am going mix the hackles. I tie them in, both concave facing forward, I apologize for forgetting the step, but I was going to tie it the other way and I realize, well this is a more interesting version, I am going to do this. Okay, I am going to put some dubbing on first underneath, because I want to dub up through and I lost my dubbing ball here, okay, I'll just get some more for me. In the box here, and kind of mixing a couple of colors here, and more of a rusty olive and just a regular olive, sparse dubbing up underneath here, over the hackle, the thread wraps, sparse I don't want to get too heavy, under here. Okay we are all set.

Caddis flies are very enticing and they are nice meal for the trout and they do entice pretty aggressive strikes and one thing, you can keep in mind is that when you do get a fly, that fish take this, it will be quite committed, if you sip these flies in. Okay here we go. I am going to send my polymer, which mean I am going to leave some space in between, okay and that's really all I need. I don't need a lot there, there is my brown. I am leaving quite a bit of space in between actually, I'll make sure I am not going to loose that, because I think it's going to slip, there we go.

Space in between is like I throw my grizzly in between those wraps. I don't want to crowd to my head, I am getting a little close to doing that, so I am going to be careful. I am going to do something naturally, you are going to kind of say, why you are doing that, you kind of defeated purps of the hackle, where you are going to see it's important, I am going to clip a little bit of hackle away from this. Okay there we go.

Now cut that stem out, try to speed up a little bit, because I took some more time with that. I added hackle feature, I am going to show you now. Now I am going turn this, like so you can see that I have got here, I am going to actually, go in now and I am going to clip out a V, from the center, of those well, I am pretty much kind of get that point of my scissors and I am going to cut that out of here. So I have a place for that wing to sit in and now we take those CDC feathers. Now here is -- the CDC, I said that before the biot. You can color these wings and I am going to show you just so that, you can see that I am talking really quickly by using a permanent marker. I am just going to take this as a brown marker, and you can do this in a different colors. It could be brown, you could go ahead and use more of a tan and I am going to put some brown on these wings on either side, I won't bother with the inside, okay, just to kind of hit them a little bit, you can even model them, by kind of just pushing your pen against them, and it gives it a nice appearance against the light of being somewhat tanish, somewhat more of a natural soft brown color. Not necessary to do that, where you could say well, I'll leave them just natural. What I like to do is just match the imitation, the original fly.

If I know what I am going to be tying and otherwise, I know I am tying a brown caddis or olive wing caddis or darker wing caddis. I can actually at home to tell you those, wings to meet my needs. Okay once again, I am going to tie these wings in just like I talked about, in the beginning I lay them on like this, I pinch them, I do a loose wrap and then pull it back. Now I got that to slide down, I have to do a little bit tighter original cinch down, there we go. I am going to pull them back and you could see, what they do, before I clip that off, they lay across, they are very nice. Now they are little bit more open, the caddis tents to hold the wings more close. But having it open gives more of a sense of movement with the wing. Okay, so we can actually do that.

Now there are ways you can actually, just use these two tips from your biots as antenna. But they are so big, because I use, larger wings, I am not going to do that I am going to show you, how to just tie in some extra ones. And I pull those back, I want to make sure, I leave a little bit there, so I have something to lash down with, I don't want to cut it right off, because I am going to have a hard time, sinking that in, I got some hackle fibers, that are getting the way, they are going to get clipped out, any of them that pull some others for a -- tie them into my head and I don't want that to happen, there you go.

I'll lash it down, it it's pretty slippery this biot. So I am going to have some trouble, right from the start, just to get that covered now, I got. Okay, here we go. Now, next step is the antenna optional absolutely, optional but I like putting them in for added realism. So now, I am just going to take some antenna, which are going to be tied with other biots, not those large tricky biots. Here, I have this kind of a tan colored, but it's a hen chicken wing feather, okay, anything can work. But I like the color, on these so, I am going to take these fine biots from leaning edge of this wing feather okay.

You could use gray, mallard, if you wanted too. You could use even, if you had some kind a smaller tricky feather. A grouse feather, will work as well. But you want to use the smaller thin biots, from a smaller feather, works very well too, if u have any small wings from various small birds partridges. If you had yourself a starling skin. Some people actually, have those for tying about, a couple of those on small primary feathers from Australian wing works pretty well too, okay. And you can actually find different colors to suit your need. If you are tying a gray caddis or a black caddis, you don't want to use a darker feather. Okay I am going to match these up so that they are of the same length.

And there is two ways of doing it. I am going to do it, the easy way. You can actually tie them in, on either side of that or you can tie them in together, I am going to tie them in together. Okay I am going roll them around so I can get, if they splay out, I am doing it again, there you go. Again, if I can they are small, but I want to get them so they are actually going to go out, concave sides facing out. Tie -- I hold them in like this just above the head this is tricky, because the hackle and I pulled out. Now I can lift them up, okay and I am going to wrap behind, one of them is little short than the other one, I can just lift it back through to get it how I want it to be. I want to make sure, they are of the same length.

So I am going to carefully move that, a little further up, there we go. Okay, now I am going to hold them up and I have got a little problem here, because I am starting to slip down into my eye and I don't want to take at least, one turn underneath so, they don't lay down in my way. So I can actually use that eye affect at least, if I get it all crowded up, I can't get in there.

Now, I am going to do a half hitch, because I want to tie in behind those antenna. I don't want to actually, tie in front of them, because I have very little room and also it's the bulk of the heads back there. So I am going to use my fingers and this is the way that I do this, on a larger flies that requires some of that application. I take my two fingers, and I go in on the thread like this and I wrap the thread around, my fingers. Now I can get a big loop, that I can pull in and it's a little bit tricky. But now I got to work my fingers out, which is tough with this, small head, there we go and I slowly pull that little close behind, those antenna okay, got it.

I should probably do one more, but because of the fact that I am getting crowded and it's just a matter of -- possibly screwing up with this, at this point, because I am getting the point I am getting so close to the end. I don't want to do that because it could actually, slip off. You want to try to get two in there and I have only got one, that's okay you can let it finish, if you have more room. I like to have those in tanish, sitting right there, on that hook cock okay.

So one should be enough if you do a good head on it, but I would like to get two in there, if I can. I am doing one for the purpose of showing, what I am doing to maintain a clean head okay. Quite a bit of cement on there, because I want to make sure, that I am not going to have that loosened up especially, with that one half hitch. Now, almost done okay, one more thing I have to do. I am going to clip off, that thread holding on to bob and end my thread at the same time, so I don't loose it, take that out. Now, I am going to flip this fly and I am going to clip the bottom off, flat okay.

So I am going to take this, I am going to lay it in. so I am cutting off, flush with the hook I am going to clip that off, from this side, best thing to do is it take it out of the vice. So I am not -- you are not going to loose what I am doing here. I can take a look at what, I have got okay, I clip them off, of there and I want to make sure, I clip them off, equally on the other sides so they are both the same and I will keep it level with my hook, I'll cut it straight across there. I am going to come in, from this side and cut across, there okay.

Very short little stubby hackles, I wish I could nail a couple of them, I wish I had a nail, but it should be okay. I'll just take it back in the vice. You can see what I have got, you can see what happen here, I got a few of them cut off, a little shorter then I wanted but it's okay, alright and there it is very affective, very clean silhouette, will works in semi-broken water or it works even better or I should say, better suited for slower water, because the effect that it has, so many realistic properties to it. The Biot Wing Caddis.

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