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Let us start that making marks along the boards face using chalk or a pencil. These marks will let us know when the face is truly flat. Using push wax I apply a moderate amount of pressure as I push this on the blades. You should have focus your pressure on the out feet side of the table for best results. Once the face is flat remarkably the squiggly line so I do not confuse it with the other face.
Now that we have one true face, we can put that face up against the joiner’s fence and sure one of our edges.
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We start by marking the edge with chalk as I did on the face. The previously jointed face against the fence I begin jointing. I like to think of my right hand as the pusher and my left hand as the feather board that applies pressure downward and against the fence. Be very, very aware of the location of your hands during this entire operation.
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So at this point you might ask yourself why not just do the other two faces on the joiner. Now that would make those other two surfaces flat and straight but it will not do is make them parallel and coplanar with the first two surfaces. We could essentially end up with the wedge shape board. And by for the easiest way to achieve the coplanar surface on the other rough face is with the power planer.
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With the previously jointed face down, I make my marks and send the board to the planer. For best results I keep the cut depth down to about 16th of an inch. Be sure to keep your fingers above the board at all times to avoid pinching.
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Now the final step in the process is the true up our on a second edge and the easiest way to do that is to go to our Shag work horse or table saw.
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At this point I take out just enough material to clean up the edge. It is a good idea to use a push stick for added safety.
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Now I got couple at tips for you that may actually save you from some future headaches. First of all whenever you pass these boards to a planer even sometimes on a jointer you can actually observe the phenomenon known as snipe. And that actually has davit that is created at the beginning where the trailing edge of the board. It is really result in most cases of a pressure roller issue and that have actually cuts deeper initially than once the whole board is under the rollers. It cuts nice in even and again at the trailing edge. It will cut a little bit deeper so the easiest way to just circumvent the problem is to cut your boards about six inches longer. Then it actually need to be in, if you do wind up having snipe you could just clip off the ends and then there is no worries.
The second tip I have concerns wood movement. You have to understand that the internal moisture content is usually greater than the moisture content at the outer edges. So when we plane these boards down we expose fresh wood with a higher moisture content. This is a specially trimmed woods that have not been fully cured or properly acclimated to your shop. Now if you are milling to final dimension in one shot, you may come back the next day to a very disappointing pile with work the boards. To avoid this disaster, mill your lumber down the size in two sessions. Do not go to final dimension on the first day of milling, let it sit for a week and then go back and repeat the milling process.
In most cases though, this can be avoided all together by making sure your boards have a few weeks to acclimate to your shops conditions. So what if you do not have on the big power tools. What if you are dealing with the board that it is just too big for the tools that you do have, let us quickly review on some alternative methods for jointing and planing.
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At the first and most obvious joining alternative is to use a bench plane. The longer the bed the better, now I am by know means I an expert on plane techniques. And I do not feel I would do you any favors by showing you my technique. So I recommend checking out an article and find wood working magazine number 119 called jointing by hand.
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This technique requires a few simple tools, a router, out fitter with straight bit and the secure straight edge. Set your clamp to straight edge the appropriate distance from the edge and rut away the rough circles. You should be left with a nice clean edge when it is all set and done.
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To join the rough edge on the table saw, I start by using double stick tape to attach my rough board to a straight use of three quarter inch plywood.
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As the straight edge of the plywood drives against the fence the rough board is trimmed perfectly straight. Now it is pretty simple to make a home jigs solely for this purpose. To do a google search is a really cool idea.
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