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Hi and welcome to lesson three, beach awareness. In this lesson we will teach you how waves are formed, identifying the different parts of a wave, measure wave height, and show you what waves are suitable for beginners.
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There are basically two types of waves, this include, the spilling or rolling waves. This wave is perfect for beginners and the safest to surf on. This waves break far from the shore and it would gently rolls over the front of the waves are shown here.
The second type of wave is a plunging wave. This wave is more dangerous and not suitable for beginners. These waves break suddenly with a lot of force with the curl breaking over the wave forming a tunnel or tube. It is a basically the perfect wave for beginners is a spilling wave. Once you have become more confident and had more practice at surfing you will then progress to the plunging wave.
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Waves are formed by three main factors. These are wind speed, length of time when the wind is blown over a given area, and a distance of open water that the wind has blown over. All these factors work together to determine the size and shape of the wave, the greater of each of these variables, the larger the wave.
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The part of the wave are the crest of leak, this is the top part of the wave, the part that curls over the trough. The trough is the bottom part of the wave, the impact zone. This is where the whip hits the base of the wave. White wash is the foaming breaking part of the wave. Wave phase is the open unbroken part of the wave. Tube is tunnel or barreling part of the wave.
There are a couple of ways to measure a wave height but the easiest way to measure it is from the trough to the crest of the wave.
So you know now a little bit about waves. How they are formed, how to measure their heights and what waves are suitable for beginners. Next lesson you will learn about personal safety. So until then, stay tuned to Pod Surf TV.
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