Seoul and Korea have long been progressing in the development of mass transit, not only in major
metropolitan areas like Seoul where in the last few years traffic is dropping by over 10% a year but
throughout the country. Train and subway commuter numbers are increasing at an outstanding rate
with nearly 10 million commuting by train and subway each day. Seoul station just one of several in and
around the city, on any given business morning is alive with commuters arriving and outbound traffic to
other parts of the country. It’s an exciting rail hub and well worth a visit.
Travel through the country is relatively easy with excellent train service which is a nice way to
experience how Koreans might travel and an excellent way to see the countryside. Rail is also by far the
best way to visit the historic city if Kyungju. About 350 miles southeast of Seoul in the coastal
mountains of Gyeongsan province, the resort area of Gyeongju. It’s one of the three most popular
destinations in Korea. Historically significant, Kyungju was the capital of the 1000 year old Silla Dynasty.
The area is a treasure of historic royal and Buddhist relics and construction dating back to BC 57, the
beginning of the Silla Dynasty. Kyungju is the home to 85 UNESCO designated world heritage sites,
seven of which are Korean national treasures. Here too, a popular resort community for locals and
foreigners.
It’s spring and the surrounding hills are colored with blooming dogwood and cherry blossoms. The
Japanese spent centuries warring on Korea but now Japanese tourists have redirected their passion to
the many golf courses in Kyungju. In Japan, golf is prohibitively expensive but a round of golf at this
particular hotel course, is less than $30.
The most significant historic landmark in Kyungju, a collection of 23 royal tombs from the Silla Dynasty.
The park is a beautifully landscaped enclosure and one of Korea’s great national treasures. One tomb is
open to the public but not to cameras. However, it’s an excellent entrance and insight into the rich and
colorful history of the Silla Dynasty. The Silla reign began about 57 BC and ran until around 935 AD. The
first burial here was believed to be around 1 or 2 AD. Until excavations of the tomb started turning up
priceless relics, like this golden crown, national treasure 188, the tomb area was a simple neighborhood.
But once the discoveries were made, everyone was moved out and it was turned into a national park.
A little further out of town is the -- tomb of King Wonseong, the 38th king of the Silla Dynasty. He ruled
from 785 to 798 AD. This particular tomb is remarkable because of the armed animals on every other
stone around the tomb and the warriors and lions guarding the tombs approach. In this region too are
many Buddhists sites included in the list of UNESCO heritage locations. One remarkable example is
Seokguram Grotto, built on the 2400 peak of Mount Tohamsan overlooking the sea of Japan, though
you’d certainly not be able to prove it on this particular day. Begun in 742 and finished about 30 years
later, it’s part of the Bulguksa Temple even though it’s 4km to the east. The grotto with its remarkable
seated Buddha is an outstanding heritage piece built by Kim Tae Song to honor his parents.
The Bulguksa Temple was begun during construction of the grotto in about 751, also by Kim Tae Song in
honor of his parents. During the Japanese invasions in 1592 and 98, most of the wooden structures
were destroyed by fire but renovation was begun shortly after with a major restoration finished in 1973.
Two of the temple’s famous stone pagodas are on Korea’s list of national treasures and open to public
viewing. On the east slope of Mount Namsan at the -- temple, another seated stone Buddha.
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