Persian kings had their tombs carved into the rock face of the -- only a few kilometers away from
Persepolis. From among the seven royal graves, only the first one belonging to Darius I could be
identified without a doubt. The tombs are built in a similar pattern. All of them have a door that opens
into the crypt from a cross shaped smoothly polished façade. Semipillars support the protruding roof
and the facades of the grave chambers remind us of palaces. The royal tombs ornamented by reliefs of
battle scenes from the 3rd and 4th centuries created for the Ssasanid, the last dynasty prior to the Arab
invasion, several centuries after the fall of the Persian Empire are also truly worth the visit. A multiple
level fire temple stands right next to the royal tombs. The picture of semicolumns and gates carved into
the sandstone are reminiscent of Petra in Jordan or Lekia in Turkey.
Esfahan is considered the most beautiful city in Iran. The city was built at an altitude of 1600 meters
above sea level on the bank of the Zayandeh Rud River. Esfahan Nefs-e Jahan, in English, Esfahan is half
of the world. That’s how people once referred to the former capital of the Safavid Kings, the place
where you can marvel at the most magnificent creations of Islamic architecture and art. Esfahan was
chosen as the capital of Iran by Shah Abbas in 1598. Glorious mosques, palaces and bridges were built
in the city along with lavish gardens and parks in the course of a few decades. The district of Christian
Armenians who settled in Esfahan at the beginning of the 1600s is a unique spot in the city.
The excellent Armenian artisans and merchants raised a number of orthodox or eastern Christian
churches. The largest one among them is the Vanl or all saviors’ cathedral. The paintings and frescoes
made in the 1660s and 70s representing biblical scenes are an interesting combination of European and
Persian art. The cathedral’s Episcopal throne is a truly masterful work of art. The cupola and the walls
of the church are decorated by colorful frescoes that depict the events of the life of Christ, his entry to
Jerusalem, his miracles and the Armenian version of The Last Supper.
The Armenian museum across from the cathedral presents the troubled fate and history of the people
of the world’s first Christian country. Here in Persia or Iran, Armenians were never subjected to such
atrocities and persecution as in the former Ottoman Empire. If you wished to explore the Islamic
mementos of Esfahan, you should start your trip at the Friday mosque. The first smaller Arab style
mosque was originally built in the place of an ancient fire temple in the 10th century. Esfahan was the
capital of the great Shauk Empire. To announce its rank and the role it played in the protection of Sunni
Islam, grand vizier Nizam Al Muk developed the old main mosque into a building complex unparalleled
in the Islamic world. Archeological findings proved that the Jami built after 1086 is the fourth structure
on the site.
In 1052, Nasir Khusraw a well known traveler of the era also wrote praising words about the city and the
mosque. The two masterful side cupola halls have forever tied this monument to the name of this
dynasty. The southern Kiblat side cupola is the creation of Nizam Al Muk as attested to by an inscription
as well. A few years later, Taj Al Muk, the adversary of the grand vizier had his own dome built on the
other side, the so called gray cupola. Many consider it to be the most beautiful cupola of Persian
architecture and in fact, there are only very few pieces of architecture where structure and decoration
combined in such perfect unity.
Several graceful bridges span the Zayandeh River. The most beautiful among them is the Khaju Bridge.
It’s 155 meters long, 14 meters wide and has 26 arches. It’s a multifunctional structure not only
providing safe crossing also serving as a lock and a water level regulator at the same time. The two
arcades of the bridge were favorite resting places of the local dignitaries in the time of Shah Abbas.
Today, we can also feel like dignitaries sipping delicious Iranian tea at one of the teahouses on the
bridge. Just like in other Arab countries, tea is more popular than coffee in Iran. They also like the apple
tea that is best known from Turkey. At the teahouses, you can also satisfy your craving for a shisha.
The shaking or tilting minaret is a special local feature. If you lean on it and shake it a bit, the minaret
starts to sway as if it were drunk probably caused by the vibrations. Of course only in theory, as alcohol
is prohibited for Iranians. If you go back to the riverbank, don’t miss the bridge, Seo Se Pol or Allah-verdi
Khan. Once camel caravans passed through the 400 year old brick bridge. In the evening, girls wearing
veils and black chadors and boys in jeans walk on the illuminated bridge holding hands. But here, it
doesn’t mean that their homosexuals. One of the most beautiful sections downtown is the Chehel
Sotun, a 40 pillar palace and its well groomed park. This is the palace where the throne hall of Shah
Abbas was.
The palace was named after the reflection of its 18 slender wooden columns doubled in the water of the
pool in front of it. The Persians rounded the number up since the number 40 not only represented a
round figure but also the idea of numerous or plenty. You’ll see a captivating canopy like painted
coffered ceiling above the wooden pillarheads. The great hall of the building is a must see where you
can marvel at paintings of famous battle scenes made in the 19th century in the time of the Kaju
Dynasty. The depiction of humans was not as strictly prohibited for the Iranian Shiites as for the
Sunnites of the Arab countries.
The rest of the pictures portray the Persian emperors of the past 400 years. Among them, Shah Nadir
who had the peacock throne that the Indians moguls brought to Persia as a trophy of war. Shah Abbas
II, the son of Safi I, was a member of the Safavid Dynasty. He inherited the throne at the age of 9 upon
his father’s death. His four brothers were blinded as a precaution. During his reign, Persia didn’t have
to fight against the attack of the Ottoman Empire. Actually, it could even expand its borders as it
grabbed Kandahar from the Mogul Empire. In 1650, his fleet defeated the Portuguese armada so he
could take control over the entire Persian Gulf. With his domestic policy, he continued the efforts of his
predecessors to centralize the whole country. Significant architectural relics of his reign are the Chehel
Sotun Palace and the Khajou Bridge. He died in – and was buried at the Shiite church center -- according
to the family’s tradition.
Imam Square or formerly the Shah Square is the impressive main square of Esfahan. Its huge, one of the
largest in the world with a length of 500 meters and a width of 160 meters. Only the Tiananmen Square
in Beijing is larger. In the middle of it, people played polo games in the era of Shah Abbas. At both ends,
you can still see the marble columns that once served as gates. On the western side of the square, is the
Ali Gate, it means tall gate and this is the real entrance of the main square. Shah Abbas had the smaller
pavilion that formerly stood here redesigned and turned it into a real palace. There are 60 rooms in the
building. Some of them feature wall paintings depicting the members of Shah Abbas court. Thousands
of years ago, traveling merchants already told sagas about the wonderful recreational place in the
slopes of the Zagros Mountains and the shady gardens of the oasis that lies on the bank of the Zayandeh
River.
The green oasis later became a trade settlement and eventually developed into a rich royal seat where
the best architects of Persia could experiment freely with their ideas and carry out the wildest dreams of
their contractors. That’s how Esfahan, the city that boasts the highest number of the most beautiful
structures in the region between the Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf became the second largest city of
Iran with is 4 million inhabitants. If you climb up the 112 steps, you’ll be rewarded by an unforgettable
view from the deck on the top. Looking to the south, you can see the blue cupola and the minarets of
the Imam Mosque. This building incorporates all the beauty of Persian Islamic architecture. Its glazed
tile façade is breathtaking.
Across from it, rises the huge colorful dome of the Shaikh Lat Falah Mosque and to the north, there’s the
entrance of the several kilometer long bazaar. There was a fountain once in the middle of the terrace.
The fabulously beautiful Latt Falah Mosque was completed in 1619. The sheikh it was named after was
a doctor revered as a Shiite saint. Lately, it’s been considered probable that the mosque was reserved
for the harem of the shah. The rectangular praying room can be accessed through a relatively short
corridor. The light that comes through the trellised windows of the cupola lends a slightly mystical
atmosphere to the interiors. The dominating colors are blue, gold and yellow with the internal
decoration reminiscent of the designs of Persian rugs.
In 1000 AD, Esfahan had more than 100 mosques and Quran schools, 2000 caravanserais and 300 public
baths. The name of the Esfahan bazaar became a notion in Iran. In the maze of the age old ancient
covered bazaar, you can find all the products of Iran. In addition to the carefully hammered shiny bowls
of the copper smiths, the valuable Persian rugs and the fancy clothes, an endless selection of souvenirs,
dried fruits, oriental sweets and alcohol free beer is also offered. You can bargain almost everywhere
but it requires a lot of patience. The huge bazaar that is spread out in an area of 30 square kilometers
leads right into the heart of the city to the --. Contrary to other historic cities, the old town Esfahan is
still vibrant with life. You can see artisans work under the arcades in their workshop service shops
windows. Anyone can watch how mosaics, miniatures, calligraphies, or traditionally designed silk or
screen printed cotton fabrics are made. And of course, the famous Esfahan rugs are still among the
most sought after articles.
Finally, we must pay a visit to the most monumental site of Esfahan, the Imam Mosque. This perhaps
the most colorful and most spectacular mosaic covered building complex of the country was constructed
between 1612 and 1630. The entrance arch has amazing stalactite decorations. It has two gorgeous
cylindrical minarets towering above the main façade. The closed inner courtyard behind the cupola
forms an acute angle with the entrance acts. The savistan or main praying hall is the central part of the
mosque. Its domed main hall reaches up 54 meters. The shrine or mehrab, and the pulpit or minbar
next to it both face Mecca. Today, the mosque is open to visitors as a museum. It has to madrasahs
where Islamic clerical schools had joined it a long time ago. The Persian, Arabic and Seljuk Turkish styles
have left their marks on mosques, madrasahs and shrines alike.
The old oriental trends were creatively boosted by the Islamic influences which are also reflected by the
harmonic proportions and the clean lines of the mosque, thereby giving spectators the impression of
absolute perfection. The sight of the Imam Square at night is unforgettable. It’s worth roaming the city
at Esfahan. You’ll bump into cheerful singing or dancing men here in there. They would surely love to
have fun with and enjoy the company of women but strict Shiite traditions prohibit that. Wrapped in
their chadors, the women glide like black crows in the streets on their way home. Young people are
clearly tired of gender segregation but they can only hope that the strict regulations will ease one day.
Khodahafez, goodbye. Let’s say farewell to them and to Iran for now.
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