Our next destination is the Si du Fars Province, the former capital of Iran, the gorgeous city of Shiraz. On
the road coming from Tehran, in the outskirts of Shiraz, stands the Quran Gate. From here, you can
have a great view of the oasis city that lies in one of the largest basins of the Zagros. 150 years ago, the
imminent Hungarian Orientist, Armin Vambery dressed as a dervish in a caravan could see how the true
Muslims fell on their knees giving thanks to Allah for allowing them to reach this safe haven after the
trial and tribulations of traveling through the desert.
Shiraz is a city of poets. The statue of poet, -- Karnani was made by Abdul Ali Gaswedasti. The citadel
when it was built in the 1760s stands in the heart of the city. The fortress was commissioned by Karim
Khan who declared Shiraz the capital of Persia in 1750. There’re circular bastions at the corners of its 12
meter high brick walls. One of them is leaning like the tower of Pisa. The name Shiraz might sound
familiar to many after the red wine that’s becoming more and more popular. It’s actually the name of a
Persian grape variety after which both the city and the wine were named. You can still see vineyards on
the outskirts of the city.
The Shah-e Cheragh or Royal Lamp Mosque is at the same time the shrine of Raz’s brother, the eighth
emam highly respected by the Shiites. A plethora of shiny glasses and mirrors that almost completely
cover the walls are a characteristic feature of Shiraz mosques. Another typical design element is a
mosaic like representation of flowers, primarily roses on the facades and arches of the arcades but also
on the walls of the mosques overlooking the courts. Sometimes it seems as if the rose trees or rose
bushes come to life on the walls of mosques and --, Muslim religious schools often adjoined to them.
The Islamic architecture of Iran borrows many ideas from ancient times. The invasion of Islamic armies
and the fall of the Persian empire ironically led to the creation of exceptional religious buildings. In the
new era, art forms such as calligraphy, stucco work, mirror crafts and mosaics were closely tied to
architecture. Archeological excavations supply ample evidence to support the fact that Ssasanid
architecture influenced the architecture of the Islamic world. Semicircular and oval arches were very
important features in the old Persian architecture and led Safavid architects to prove their exceptional
talent by constructing huge domes. As the German archeologist Huff said the copula is the ruling
element of Persian architecture.
The Vakil Mosque was named after King Karim Khan because he actually didn’t take the title of Shah but
called himself vakil, a governor of the people. The twisted monolith columns of the Vakil Mosque are
extremely interesting. There’re altogether 48 of them. Next to the mirab, the shrine facing the
direction of Mecca stands the 14 step marble pulpit the mingva. This is where the mullah calls the
congregation of believers to pray on Fridays. In the Vakil Mosque, the main ideologist and religious
leaders of Iran are portrayed by photos and paintings. You can also see the familiar picture of Ayatollah
Khomeini here. After his death, Ali Khameini Hajotoleslam was elected as the main religious leader of
the country. His portrait can be see not only here but also in official buildings and offices. Iran ranks
number seven on the list of historic monuments, museums and other cultural sites in the world. The
UNESCO also considers the country one of the cradles of civilization.
Not far from the mosque is the famous Narangistan or in English, the Orange Blossom House of Quran.
The residents were the former governor and protector of Shiraz. Today, Narangistan is a museum that
belongs to the city and the national cultural heritage foundation.
The elaborate artistic workmanship and rich sophisticated details of the potteries, inland ceilings and
walls, glass mosaic doors and windows and fireplace coverings is captivating. A descendant of the
owner of the palace rights, no doubt, it’s a must see, go to Shiraz. Visit this breathtaking museum and
see with your own eyes all the culture and elegance that this century old building represents. There are
fabulous places and homes all over Iran that are parts of museums and the cultural heritage. Many
people in Iran know what true elegance is and how to live in beauty. Actually, they’ve known that for
centuries and many generations grew up with that. I think we, in our western society have given
ourselves so much over to our phobias about how this world is supposed to be and how things must
work by our rules that we simply forget that the pillars of civilization and the carriers of tradition are
countries like this, like Iran.
Another beautiful place not to be missed is the famous Iran garden, known for its rose garden and
cypress trees. The house once belonged to the Gashgai family. Today, it’s part of the Shiraz University
and headquarters of the law school. The Vakil Bazaar has more or less managed to preserve its 18th
century atmosphere. Originally, four caravanserais surrounded the extensive building complex of the
bazaar. You could find beautiful creations of Shiraz folk art and crafts in the many hundred meter long
maze of the bazaar. Find textiles, shiny gold and silver jewelry, elaborately hammered copper objects,
oriental spices and fresh fruits could all be found in the rich selection of goods. At the first sign of
fatigue, it’s worth sitting down for some grape tea or a piece of traditional cake in any of the friendly
establishments. You can buy true copies of ancient Persian coins that are made on the spot.
The old bazaar dates back to the era of Shah Abas. Its layout is one of the best among oriental bazaars.
74 proportionate arches span the curved alcoves and serve to support the roof structure. The Shrine of
Sa’di, one of the greatest poets of Shiraz is located in a gorgeous park. The 13th century poet created
rhymes about the pleasures of life. His poems and verse infused anecdotes written in prose under the
title of Gulistan, the Rose Garden and Bustan, the orchard are still taught in the schools of Iran. The
most famous poems of Sa’di are an intrinsic part of world literature. The English translation of one of his
poems graces the entrance of the UN building in New York. When you pass by the modern shrine that
was constructed in the middle of the past century, you can reach an underground fresh water canal full
of fish, the water of which is traditionally believed to make women fertile.
Among Persian poets Omar Khayyam is the most widely known abroad but the name of Sa’di and Hafez
are equally familiar within the country. The Shrine of Hafez, the legendary poet of Shiraz is an octagonal
canopy like structure that also awaits its consistently large number of visitors in a wonderful park
surrounded by a rose garden. Those who know Persian literature are still impressed by the mystic
effects of the poems of the 14th century poet.
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