George: Midway down the coast brings you to Split wedged between a mountain range and a palm tree line waterfront. Split has Roman ruins, many museums and incredible beauty. Today’s old town was the summer residence of the roman emperor Diocletian. The heart of the city lies within the very walls of his third century palace. He achieved a brilliant career as a soldier and became emperor at the age of 40. In 295, he ordered this vast palace to be built in his native Dalmatia. When this masterpiece was finished, he stepped down from the throne and retired to his homeland. When he died he was laid to rest in a mausoleum within the palace walls. That became the cathedral of St. Domnius in the 7th century AD. It is said to be the oldest and smallest cathedral anywhere. It sure looks that way once you get inside. If you’re healthy enough, climb the bell tower built in stages between the 12th and 16th centuries.
Continuing along the Croatian coastline, there’s never ending beauty and another Riviera. This one’s called Makarska. But before I travel south, I’m taking a left turn travelling east to the embattled town of Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina. Mostar’s roots run to Greek and Roman times. In the 15th century, residents built a bridge over the Nivetha River. It was wooden hung on chains. Guards were recruited to protect the span. They were called mostari. Historians think that’s how the town got its name. The Turks invaded around 1467 changing the culture of the community. In 1566, the wooden structure was replaced by the old stone bridge. Turkish domination ebbed in the 17th century as other ethnic groups moved in. There was peace and harmony within the diversity. That is until late in 1993. So what happened late in the afternoon on the 9th of November 1993?
Male: In 1993, in the late afternoon on November, that was really something terrible for Mostarians. Our symbol of Mostar of BiH has been destroyed by the nationalists. It would be better to say opposing military forces of Croatia.
George: And they were up on the hills.
Male: Yes, they’re up on the hills but especially from the hill here on our right side, and the small valley here on the left side, they have destroyed by tank shells.
George: The war went on here for eight months. Then the war ended, and fortunately, people got together to rebuild the bridge.
Male: Yes, fortunately, people get together, the people from Mostar, the government and BiH Bosnia and Herzegovina and municipality of Mostar took decision to reconstruct the bridge. Thanks to all of them, thanks to UNESCO, thanks to Turkish government, thanks to German government, Italian and all other governments but I would not forget of course the Croatian government who was in the war as well in this beautiful project of reconstruction.
George: The fighting lasted for eight months. Some 3000 people died. Thousands fled Mostar, 5000 buildings were destroyed, after the war an international effort began to rebuild the old bridge and on July 23, 2004, the work was finished. The bridge was dedicated. Today, Mostaris still maintained the bridge but they also do something else. I know how high up it is, I know how deep it is and you’ve done this a hundred times, maybe a thousand times but do you think about anything when you’re jumping or do you just go?
Male: You need concentration before the jump or else you might get yourself killed.
George: Tourists generally pay the men to jump and the spectacle takes place several times each day. Each summer, Mostar hosts an international bridge diving and jumping competition. At the end of 2005, the bridge joined an elite list, it is now one of UNESCO’s protected world heritage sites. Officials hope there’ll be no more wars here, not future destruction of this remarkable span across the Nivetha River. Despite the destruction, Mostar is seeing more visitors from other nations. They come to the old town, a cross between Eastern Europe and Turkey.
Muslims, Christians and Jews live in peace at the moment but they remain in separate neighborhoods. There are two dozen mosques in Mostar, several Orthodox and Roman Catholic churches and a synagogue. Mostar needs time to heal and rebuild fully. But with its restored bridge in place, the city is a worthwhile stop for seasoned travelers.
Transcription by:
Scribe4you Transcription Services