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I also like to make sure that all of my cast iron surfaces in the shop are nice and sleek, rust free and ready to go for the next project. Now, in Arizona, rust is not usually much of a problem so maybe once a year, I give them the full on rust treatment and I believe in the band so tune up episode, I covered how you would treat a brand new cast iron surface and that is exactly what I would do for a yearly maintenance. I might use a little bit of sand paper with the WD 40 or something to clean off the rust but for routine maintenance like this, this is like WD 40, I got some white lithium grease here, you do not want to use these products. They are actually going to make the surface more wet and what is going to happen when you have a wet surface and saw dust, it is going to be a goopy mess. So you want to stay away from the wet stuff.
What you do want to use are silicon free waxes, polishes things like that. So, this is probably one of the best values if you are looking for the cheapest way to do this. This is just mean wax paste finishing wax, you can use like Johnson’s paste wax. Okay, it is just a simple formulated wax, it is stinky, you know, you might want to ware some breathing protection while you are using this stuff. This is perfect. You can get a product something like top coat. This is the Bostik is the name of the company. Top coat is great. A matter of convenience, you just spray it on the surface and then puff it out. It is great but it is a little bit more expensive, and then of course, good old renaissance wax, one of my favorite waxes. It is a little bit more of an expensive wax but man, this stuff lasts forever.
So, I try to use this as much as possible but I am getting low so I may want of just using my mini wax paste finishing wax for the surface today. So we go Michael Jackson styles with the single glove. Alright just wall up a paper towel get a good amount of wax on there and buff it baby.
Get a nice coating. Wait a couple of minutes. Well, you go way to couple of seconds or a couple of minutes whatever and come back with a clean a part of your paper towel and buff it. And you get a nice slit, protected surface. Now also keep in mind, if you have a splitter, it is a great idea to wax that as well so that the wood as it goes through slides right by with no friction. You do not want to get caught on your splitter. I mean, if it is aligned properly, you shoot it anyway but it is nice to have a nice sleek surface there.
Now most likely, after a big project, you are going to have a lot of scraps lying around. Little, tiny useless pieces unless you are a scroll sawyer or perhaps if you do a lot of inlay, you could slice this up into little inlay pieces. I got plenty of that laying around so I do not really need this extra scrap.
I do want two things. First of all, if you are a big fan of barbeque, you got it made. This hard wood scraps are great for smoking, you know, different types of meats. Stay away from the exotics, it got a lot of wangy scraps and I am not going to use those in my grill. Also stay away from your soft woods. The risen content and those is a little bit too high and it can make for a really acrid smoke. So just stick with the standard hardwoods, I got some older cherry, maple, even some white oak those are going to be perfect for the grill.
Now, no matter what I do, my putty knives always seem to get gummed up and they just get a bunch of craps stocked to them. If you got some sort of a power sander, I like the oscillating spindle sander for this. You can clean this us in no time.
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Now, it is not a secret that workers make a lot of dust. Now, what the dust collector does not get with my cyclone, usually winds up on the floor and things like hand plains and my miter saw is not connected so I still tend to get a lot of dust on the floor that needs to be picked up. And, my trustee shop vac is what does that. Okay, this is a 5 ½ horsepower, 12 galloon, shop vac grand shop vac, it works really good.
Now, I am going to show you what I do in the inside. Now, I made a mistake when I first got my shop vac. I am only relying on that inner pleaded filter. This filter are right here. I relied on that to catch the dust and only that and it worked great. It does catch the dust but man, does it clog up fast. Every five minutes, I am outside, I am not going to add a thing just to loosen all the dusts from the pleats. And I realized that, you know, everyone is telling me, you got to use a bag in my head. I could not wrap my head around the fact that it would actually keep the air flow even better if you put a bag in there but it is absolutely true, you need that two stage filtration.
Okay. So most of the dust gets caught in the bag and a real fine stuff that does not get caught in the bag, it gets caught in my head of the filter right here. And the great thing about it, you notice, there is no dust. I mean, there is a little bit of fine dust but nothing caught in there like there would be if I did not have a bag. And this guy keep full sanction until this bag is completely full. The other thing is, I have gone through two motors because that dust gets through here and goes up into the motor.
Now that I have had my bag, I have had the same unit for over a year with no problems. No bearing whistles or anything that I usually get that shows that the motor is about to go. Even got to one point where the motor started smoking on me. So, use the bag and the filter and your going to make your life a whole lot easier.
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