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Now, all the pore filling is done, all the sanding is done, these pieces are ready for the finish. What I am going to use as a pre-catalyst lacquer which what I have got in here we actually added some lacquer thinner in there as well just to dilute it make it a little bit easier to spray and the first thing I like to do, here is my little spray cab actually like to filter the finish because there could be a little bit of sediment pieces of the flattening agent or even just dirt inside of a can but we really do not want it in our finish, so it is a good idea to strain it.
Now, what I use for this is actually just a standard paint strainer, finish strainer you can get from any paint store, hardware store whatever, it is going to be a little messy you just can be expect that. Okay, put the cap back on and get ready to spray and now that the part that had potential splashing is over with I am going to put on my safety lenses.
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I start by spraying lengthwise with the gun about 6 inches from the surface. In order to get the smoothing consistent finish it is very important to keep your arm lacks so the angle of the gun never changes. It is also important to start spraying before you actually touch the piece and continue spraying at the end of each patch.
If you start in stop while position over the piece you will most likely end up with heavy and light areas. There are needs to successive pass I tried it overlap the previous pass by about half. Just a quick safety, be sure to take in to the regulations in your area concerning sprayed to finishes and always wear the proper protective equipment. Before I reassemble the entire table there is a few things I like to show you.
First of all, the little wooding gears for the full mechanism under the table, these thing were shut to hell pretty much they were six teeth missing off to this one and four of to this one. So, I talk with the customer and asked them what would they rather me do. I can build new ones and actually cut new ones out with have been very expensive for them or I can just try to rebuild the teeth using whatever I have around and I actually, well they decided to have me rebuild them instead of a cutting a new ones.
So, it was not quite the right surface for me to actually rebuild it with wood, it was just too small and would have been on a mass. So, I decided that actually rebuild it using a really, really hard wood filler. Now, I use this stuff for the structural wood filling. If I am doing something that is going to be for looks there is other wood fillers that are not necessarily a strong but the color matching and the ability to except the stain it quite a bit better so the more soothed for that task.
This in particular these man wax wood filer, I like to use that one, it is structural issue and I really want to get something in there that is going to be as strong as wood and it going to last a long time. Now, this particular materials is a basically a two part of mix, you have got hardener and the gray milky type filler material. You are not going to use very much to hardener just about you know, a little quarter inch that basically goes to I think the sale is like a golf size in a manual filler so not very much. Interestingly enough, this hardener is just benzoyl peroxide, this is the same stuff that is in oxy 10 and do not ask me how I know this because I have perfect skin.
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