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I have just finish sanding the entire project all the tabletop pieces with the random morbid sander to 180 grips. I think that feeling nice and smooth here it seems like we are ready to go with our top coat and our clear finish. But there is a problem. We have to keep in mind the grains structure of this wood. In this case, we are working with a Mahogany and mahogany as well as walnut, and oak are open for the woods, and we have to think a head about what that is going to look like if we put a high gloss top coat on or you are putting a mat finish on it. If you think of this things ahead of time and sort of no what is going to look like and what is going to look a little it off.
To me, nothing looks weirder or just not right to me then a high gloss finishes on an open pore wood. It just does not look right. If you are going with the high gloss finish that you want to look like basically, the shade of glass over your wood you can have little pore pockets init and it little debits in it. You need a continuous flat surface to get that really nice shade that you are going for.
Now, if you are going to hit with a mat finish material or you are going to knock down the gloss to something like a mat finish, it will pores may not make that much of a difference. You may want that last look if you are going to hit it with Danish oil or just a pure tang wheelers or something like you may not mind those.
You want a very close to the wood finish, you are building a huge finish of on top of the wood so it does not really matter s much. So, right now we are going to talk a little bit about poor filling and again this can be apply to a number of different woods if you noticed that it is can open forge structure. That is something you may want to consider if you know you are going for finish on the top that is actually has some gloss to it.
Now, there are number message out there for filling pores in a piece of wood. Ask your 100 wood workers you and might get a 100 different answers. But for me I have two methods that I use depending on what type of top coat that they are going to be using on that finish piece and these two methods work great for me so I stick with them.
The first one is a more on natural finish method it does not involve really in a commercially available fulfilling product but it is pretty cool. I am going to show you that is actually, what I am going to use on this refinishing job. But there is one that do use pretty frequently so I think it is worthwhile to go through process and then I will show the one that I am actually going to use for this projects specifically.
So, instead of this piece of mahogany we are going to work with it is nice piece of quarters on white oak. It looks real close, and there is a lot of open really wide open pores here that are just begging to be filled so let us give them there wish.
There are four things that we need to get started on this oil varnish fulfilling in venture. Number one sand paper, really any sand paper will do but my prior is automotive sand paper it is a wet dry materials you can actually get this submerge on oil and it wont try to fall apart the grains going to stay intact it is going to do a rally good job.
You can start with 320 you can use a 220 even 180 just anything that going to create sawdust mix with our varnish and oil. Next when you use varnish any polyurethane varnish will do. You just want something that is going to solidify in there is pores stretch themselves L and actually give you a nice clean smooth surface.
Gloves, any gloves will work. Oil, okay that is pretty for making a salad oil. Tang oil you can also sue oil in lean seed oil these oil is basically do not really fast and is going to mix with your varnish and gives us a basically a nice long working time work with those slurry another thing that you can to save time see unto mix it your self is Danish oil.
Danish oil is actually a premix oil varnish mixture. It is basically, everything there in one-step before on the surface start sanding away we arte god to go.
I start the process by using a paper towel to spread liberal amount of Danish oil along the surface. I am using dark color Danish oil in this example so that the effect of the pore filling is much more obvious.
I use the sanding wax with 320 grip wet/dry sand paper to sand entire surface. The goal here is to create slurry of oil and sawdust it will essentially serve as pore filler. I use 320grip here where you can just this easily use anything from 150 to 320 grip.
After a few minutes of sanding the pores are pretty much filled. I can look at it with a like coming across the surface this way and for virtual it is a racking light and I see that pores you almost have invisible at this point in terms of depth. Like hands stable is pretty much flat so it is good start. Now, all the pores are filled they are not solidified yet.
The oil varnish mixture has an incurred so if we rub across the rain at this point. Removed this excess material and all likelihood we are going to pull stat out of the pores we do not want to do that. So, we will let this stick for 24 hours when I comeback to it tomorrow we are going to put a little more oil on the surface get some more sand paper and go through the processes one more time.
Any of the pores that have not been filled from the first sanding or definitely going to get filled during these sanding, and will going to let that set for few minutes, and then I am going to wipe off the excess either using burlap that is best thing to use.
At first, they do not have burlap in my shop but I do have papers towels. So, probably going to scrape the excess of the surface using some sort of a plastic scraper like and then let it dry or another few minutes and comeback with paper towel and lightly rub across the grain. I was going across the grain because with the grin you are going to have the tendency to pull out that pore filling material.
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