At least 24 hours at your last wet sanding is what I would recommend before you actually dry sand this in preparation for your stain or finish.
The second pore-filling method that I like use in bouncy use to the commercially available pore filling material, something like this oil based paste wood filler, it is perfect for this type of application. This particular one is natural there is no tint or color in fact, it is a very dull kind of an wood like gray color the point is that you cant tent this to whatever color you want it to be.
So, if you are well now you can go brown, if you are doing the mahogany you can go a little bit red. So, what we are actually going to use, a few different dyes here to make our custom color pore-filler and then we are going to spray it on he surface and go through the whole process.
Now, I keep lot of this little plastic caps in the shop, they are disposable, they are great for epoxy, you know any types of glue you want to mix up you know, any pigments were dyes you want to mix up ahead of time for you to add on to a finishing in this case, it is going b where we are going to mix our pore-filler and there are actually dye material.
I highly recommend getting yourself a set of these little measuring spoons they work great and if you can use these you get to a point that you start always making recipes for things and you get repeatable quantities table spoons, teaspoons what have you. But these are usually available in your kitchen and if your wife start asking questions you just do what I do and I do not know what you are talking about so, go ahead and take a few scope of these.
I want to go make enough for the one panel here, I am going to do the rest of the panels later, put that on the side. Let see, I have a dark mission brown trans in dye and a reddish brown, I am probably going to add say like a two to one mixture of this, for every drop of dark mission brown.
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I am going to do two drops of the reddish brown, so when we go with two drops of dark mission, four drops of the reddish brown with a little it of mixy mix. So, now you have a much more pleasant brown color, a little bit a hint of red. So, by the time this dry and gets a little chalky looking but once you put a finish over top of it again and it will bring out that color, so we do want to get to a color that is going to blend nicely with this surface.
Now, it is real good idea to work on a small section at a time, this particular leaf is just about the right size, if you doing a larger piece I probably recommend doing a section of about this size going through the whole process and then moving down the line.
So, idea, I would basically strips along the surface. Now, I use this little plastics spreader trying to get anything I can for free when I can get it for free. This particular spreader came with the laddering on my track for my business. The sign company gives this out when ever you buy the ladders so, what the heck it is perfect.
Another thing you can use very popular things to use is actually old credit cards, if you do not mind keeping one around. One fact, the best things to do is use the fake ones that you get in the mail and use those to spread glue, spread finishes, what ever you need.
So, my final strokes here are going to be across the grain like so, if you go with the grain you have the tendency to actually pull the material back out of the pores. Given in about three minutes the ranges is three to five minutes and when you live in Arizona they will give a range always take the lower end of the range, everything dries faster here. What I am start doing is actually going across the grain, pulling off this extra pore-filler here.
In fact, it is not bad idea, to get your cap over and takes some of that extra stuff because you can reuse it for the next panel. Okay, this not only removes the excess but it has a real good job of packing the pore filler down into the pores. Now, this point of a game you could leave as is. Let us seat 24-hours and be ready to go tomorrow.
Now, the problem with that is that we still have a good amount or residue on surface. The scraper got most it off but anything that is left on here, we are going to have the sand through tomorrow, the idea is not to cover the entire surface, it is just get the material in the pores. So, if we sand tomorrow we want sand down to bear wood on the areas that are adjacent to the pores.
After letting the pore filler dry over night, I begin by sanding the surface with 120 grip paper. Notice how chalky in dust the pore fillers is but that is a lot like a dust room dry warm up. These in not something you want to breathe so be sure to take the proper precautions such as dust collection and respirator. After removing the bulk of the pore-filler I switch 180 grip and then sand until reach bear wood.
Alright, now that the surface is sanded nice and smooth, we have got most of that filler off there, just blow up the extra dust and this guy is ready for our finish.
Well, that does it for part five for our refinishing series. Be sure to check out the next video for more helpful tips and techniques. And if you have any questions at all comments, please feel free to email as at TheWoodWhisperer@Gmail.com
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